Hopefully this helps. If you have significantly less than 12 volts at the yellow- red wire to the starter solenoid, you have a bad start relay.

Thanks for the diagram. I had over 12 volts to the yellow red wire on start mode of the key. When letting go of the start position, it went down to 4.5 volts. It is possible that vibration is causing that relays contacts to partially connect activating the starter. It is old and I am replacing it.

In my experience that relay sticks in the open position. Seen probably a hundred stick open and just click when you try and start the motor, and never seen a single one stick closed

I understand. What? You're saying I'm just saying that the contacts of that relay one side always has 12 volts. And when the relays activated, it sends power to the yellow red wire on the starter. The key only activates the coil of the relay. For 29 Bucks, it's getting a new starter. It will have a new relay.also.

I agree the ign timing appears to be overly advanced at start-up.

As a long-winded side-note that may or may not pertain to the ops situation:
When I first bought my boat, my engs were slow to crank, found ign timing waay too advanced. Fixed the ign issue, but starter still didn't sound right on starboard eng. After pulling the eng (for another issue) I found the starter bolts were bent slightly. Ordered new 3/8" starter bolts but the knurling was the wrong diameter for my starter..Orig knurling should be a snug fit as half of the knurling enters the block and the other half of the knurling is in the starter. This helps keep the starter aligned properly. It doesn't have to be off much to cause bendix engagement, dis-engagement issues.

When I re-installed the starter with my new bolts, I discovered the starter was free to wiggle slightly side-to-side with bolts lightly tightened. Discovered the part of the knurling that enters the block was 3/8" as it should be, but the after-market, high-torque mini-starter opening for the starter bolts was 10mm. Once I had the right "hybrid" starter bolts (3/8" lower half of knurling and 10mm on top half of knurling) all was well again.

May not be your issue, but it's really quick and easy to check with the starter on the bench. Simply put the bolts into the starter on the bench and see if there's any side to side play. When I had the correct bolts, I could put them into the starter (on the bench), flip starter over and the bolts wouldn't fall out without a nudge.

Is the screech sound there even after the engine is started? YES

I will check the bolts. as for the timing like i said i swapped the distributors so now since the issue still exists I cannot hook up my timing light with this screeching going on so i timed it by marks i left on the intake and distributor to keep me in the range so it at least starts until i get this running with no noises. thanks for the info.

Gimbal bearing seize up over the winter?

I should have the new starter and relay soon. So the outdrive and gimble bearing are my next 2 items to check if the screeching noise does not go away with the new starter and relay. As mentioned previously if I disconnect the Ignition coil the engine turns over with no unusual noises. Why would the gimble bearing or outdrive only cause a noise when it starts? Faster speed?

I'll be honest i just watched the video for the first time haha. That is an odd noise that I wouldn't really think starter or outdrive/gimbal would make. Do you have a little bit longer video of it? I would also address that timing issue on startup before anything else...