I'll have to catch up on the videos posted when I can...

If I modify things just a bit, I can fit the stud mounted windage tray in the new pan...would this be a no no or something that may help? Just trying to figure what direction I should go? I'm thinking of removing one of the trap doors on each baffle just so I don't have restriction getting back to the pump...also by leaving one on each it should help a little in the event I have a rapid slow down and the oil wants to run forward....thoughts?

I have scoured my pics and videos and the motor sits damn near perfectly level while running at pretty much all speeds other than getting on plane obviously so that's a plus I guess lol

Rereading my comment, fixing my spelling errors from typing with my thumbs and I TOO was thinking simply adding a good windage tray to your pan on main studs should make a big difference, not like the pan is so terribly designed that it starves engine, I thinks its just more the components meant to control windage are too fa away to do their job. I DID notice when looking at Champs website on matts pan, there's no mention of how much stroke its built for, I bet its more then 4.250 though. I just got done dynoing a 496 4.25 stroker with moroso 6.5 qt pan built to fit his 69 chevelle, it controlled oil just fine. After changing oil on dyno we did overfill it by 3/4 qt and quart inadvertently and saw a little evidence of getting into the crank (70 to 55, 60 lbs at 6000 up, lowered oil level a little and was steady. that engine went from 635 to like 628 with the extra oil so not as dramatic as some of the videos, Smitty

Good to know! What do you think of either buying or building a windage tray that mounts to the studs but extends all the way to the front of the crank? Mine is the standard tin one that only goes around the pump and forward to like mid way up the crank if that makes sense? Could easily just modify my current one by adding some material forward and trimming it as needed to fit in the pan then maybe drill some holes or something in it for better drainage if needed? Just spitballing some ideas

ran across this...mildon oil stripper/windage screen with the stock tin tray...thoughts on that with the champ pan?

I didn't realize the limitations of skirted blocks. Glad the BBC and SBC were non-skirt designed.

LS engine with high rpm has a hard time getting the oil past the crank/windage into the pan. It chews up a lot of hp.

Lots of factors affect oil entrainment. Crank texture, knife edging counter weights. (These don't add a lot of power, but would likely affect oil entrainment sensitivity) shield distance to rod crank, shield design, oil viscosity, block angle, oil slosh from rough water and hull impacts, etc.

A few factors:

Preventing the pan oil coming in contact with the pan oil.

Once crank entrained, getting oil off and into the pan.

Flat stilock type trays always always made me think the oil would reflect back off into the crank again. I like the louvered cut out style.