no, try a wood shim like the type you use when you shim a door

You need a really shallow wedge. Mechanical advantage and thinner to get in between the gelcoat and stainless. Medium hard...soft enough to not damage, hard enough to not just get smashed like a piece of balsa and let the wedge work.

This is my go to when working with adhesives. I've had parts sealed with 5200 and they came off very easily after using debond.

Post 8 is all the tools I used to remove everything off the back of my transom. The mortar tools helped. lol
Heat and solvents were no avail.
Transom Rebuild...Help

Bencini,

I’ve seen this stuff talked about out before. I don’t think I’m dealing with 5200. Is that stuff specific to 5200, or will it work on other stuff? 4200, silicone, etc….?

Was the flapper stuck causing a restriction you think?
Sorry you have to pull the engine again that's never fun.

• Recommendation
  Gelcoat

• Cured 3M 5200, polysulfide sealants and other polyurethane adhesives
• Removes caulks, sealants, black rub marks, adhesive residue, liquid nails, graffiti and overspray
• Cleans adhesive film from duct and masking tape
• Will not harm: Gelcoat, Clear Coat, Plexiglass, AwlGrip or Imron
• 5 oz. aerosol can

Dan,

No idea. Never thought about it. Maybe. Don’t think it was broken when I was spending all that time in the bilge over last winter. We weren’t monitoring the even bank for AFR. We might know if we had.


Engine’s out. It won’t take me but a couple hours to do the work I actually pulled it to do, but I’m talking with the tuner about a cam swap while I’ve got it out. So I’m gonna hold off until I get that sorted out.

Thanks. Brad.

Padraig,

I may have to check that stuff out. If for no other reason, I’ve got a some black rub marks from where I got into the dock at Connelly while I was figuring out that the shift cam in the outdrive had broken.

Gonna order a can.

Thanks. Brad.

I've never used it but it sounds like it may be worthwhile to keep a can in the garage.

Padraig