Broken Exhaust Dam Flapper
 

Guys,

Getting ready to pull my engine again to replace the circ pump (can’t get to it; don’t ask), and discovered this:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...981a4229c.jpeg

Are these replaceable? Totally necessary? Got any ideas?

Thanks. Brad.

Yes, very necessary. They prevent reversion. Or at least helps prevent it. They are replaceable. Or, you can remove them and install rubber flappers on the exhaust tips.

Pasquesi,

Reached out to Corsa. Got a reply back with PN. Looks to be a welding job. Sound about right? Or can they be replaced without removing the shaft?

Thanks. Brad.

I don't think I have ever heard of flappers helping prevent reversion. Exhaust water and "vacuum" will be occurring before hitting the flappers?

Ryan,

I think he meant wave surge.

It looks like I’ll be pulling the exhaust tips while the engine’s out, too. The shaft is tack welded in, so I’ll have to grind the weld out, slip the shaft out, replace with new assembly, then tack weld the new shaft in place.

I spoke with Neil Wallace, and he tells me the exhaust tips shouldn’t be stuck to bad; no 5200 or anything major, as far as adhesive goes.

Yet AnOtHeR winter project to add to the list.

I know. It’s spelled B. O. A. T.

Thanks. Brad.

Water intrusion from stopping quick, waves up the transom, etc, etc.

May help dampen the exhaustbpulses / lessen some reversion by closing on neg pulsing, etc, but not really a reversion (from engine design while running) device.

They are lifetime warranty from Corsa, I have sent tips to them before and they replaced them no charge

BoatNT,

I saw that. I’ll call them and see what they say.

Thanks. Brad.

I like the external Salisbury flappers, inexpensive and they’re visible so you can see if they start to tear/deteriorate.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...43c737087.jpeg

BoatNT,

Great news. Corsa told me to send them back to them and they'd replace them.

Thanks. Brad.

cool!!!!

BoatNT,

Any good tricks to getting the tips out of the transom? I've got the screws out. From the looks of the gumpuckey on the screws, it doesn't appear to be anything crazy, but they aren't budging, even with a pretty good whack with a dead blow hammer from the inside.

Thanks. Brad.

I usually use a heat gun and heat the trim ring around the tip and take a wood shim and push it in between the tip and the transom

BoatNT,

I’ve got a buddy bringing a heat gun tomorrow.

After doing some reading, I also picked up a spool of micro-braid fishing line and a rubber strap filter wrench. Ever had any luck with these?

I managed to cut a small strip of the adhesive that had extruded around the edge of the trim ring. It’s still fairly pliable. Is this an indicator that it’s NOT 5200? Neil Wallace tells me that it shouldn’t be.

Thanks. Brad.

now you just have to get em out...
my reloader broke a special piece and after i got it out...i should have just ordered the new piece
but dillion still sent me a new one
great to hear corsa is standing up
my tips have what look like spiral type things in them... 1988 vintage

Combination of a 2x4 against them inside with a dead blow and someone using a pry bar carefully on the back to not mess up the gel. I always put some painters masking tape on the outside where the pry bar was going to be. No. Real tricks unfortunately.

Dead blow hammers really help. Wood wedges to help with tension, makes the striking blows more effective.

A slide hammer would also help out if you can set it up through the port.

All after a good heat saturation of course.

they also help stop the blows from bending the tube.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...42656fee1.jpeg
This is why you need to make sure your flappers are functional. I think this is what happened to this engine after forensic exam.

you can also use an oil filter wrench on the outside to give you some twist while pulling.
i used two so i could twist and pull with both hands

SammyJ,

I’ve got a rubber strap filter wrench and a heat gun. Right now, my priority is getting the engine ready to pull. After this weekend, I’ll start on a couple of winter projects, the exhaust tips being the newest one added to the list.

Thanks. Brad.

Years ago I got a 20ft Reinell cheap...it was stern wake swamped. ( sea water in cylinderd) Insurance inspection said they wouldn't cover it, it was poor maintenance. No one told the guy...that if he just pulled the spark plugs cranked it over bunch... and dumped a lot of engine oil in the spark plugs holes...and more cranking...change the oil....fire it up.....change oil again...It would have been fine.

BoatNT,

OK.... So how hot do I get it? I've had it hot enough I couldn't leave my fingers on it for more than a second or so, and the gel/glass surrounding it was considerably more than warm to the touch, and nothing. filter wrench, dead blow... Nothing. Is there a sign I should be looking for? Smoke? Smell? Sound? Time? I've got an IR thermometer. Any idea on actual temp? It sounds like there's a sweet spot where it's hot enough to loosen the adhesive, but not hot enough to discolor/deform/damage the gelcoat. I just don't want to overshoot it.

Thanks. Brad.

Metal fittings in the direct sun on a hot day will get hot enough to burn on touch.

What does the IR heat therm say? I find the shiny chrome type surfaces often don't give accurate readings.

Tartilla,

I haven’t used it. I was just suggesting I have one if it would be of use; if someone had a target temp.

ooh, I’m aware how hot metals can get in the sun. I also know that a heat gun can wreck gelcoat. Not as quick as a propane torch, but it will. I don’t want to find out where that threshold is.

Thanks. Brad.

Have you tried chiseling around the edge with a wood wedge or similar?

Ryan,

Not yet. I figured the heat wouldn’t be less of a chance for physical damage. It doesn’t look like there’s any gap to get anything under there, but I’ll give it a shot.

Thanks. Brad.

Ryan,

Not yet. I figured the heat wouldn’t be less of a chance for physical damage. It doesn’t look like there’s any gap to get anything under there, but I’ll give it a shot.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0ee7ac058f.jpg
Something like this?

Thanks. Brad.

What about the fishing line?

Padraig

Padraig,

I have not. I bought some, but I’ve been busying myself getting the engine “loose” so I can get it pulled tomorrow, in between trying to keep the shop running.

But, again, I have my doubts of getting it under the flange to begin with.

Thanks. Brad.

no, try a wood shim like the type you use when you shim a door

You need a really shallow wedge. Mechanical advantage and thinner to get in between the gelcoat and stainless. Medium hard...soft enough to not damage, hard enough to not just get smashed like a piece of balsa and let the wedge work.

This is my go to when working with adhesives. I've had parts sealed with 5200 and they came off very easily after using debond.

Post 8 is all the tools I used to remove everything off the back of my transom. The mortar tools helped. lol
Heat and solvents were no avail.
https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...uild-help.html

Bencini,

I’ve seen this stuff talked about out before. I don’t think I’m dealing with 5200. Is that stuff specific to 5200, or will it work on other stuff? 4200, silicone, etc….?

Was the flapper stuck causing a restriction you think?
Sorry you have to pull the engine again that's never fun.

Dan,

No idea. Never thought about it. Maybe. Don’t think it was broken when I was spending all that time in the bilge over last winter. We weren’t monitoring the even bank for AFR. We might know if we had.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6ca670f91.jpeg
Engine’s out. It won’t take me but a couple hours to do the work I actually pulled it to do, but I’m talking with the tuner about a cam swap while I’ve got it out. So I’m gonna hold off until I get that sorted out.

Thanks. Brad.

Padraig,

I may have to check that stuff out. If for no other reason, I’ve got a some black rub marks from where I got into the dock at Connelly while I was figuring out that the shift cam in the outdrive had broken.

Gonna order a can.

Thanks. Brad.

I've never used it but it sounds like it may be worthwhile to keep a can in the garage.

Padraig