I have rebuilt the three of mine with no problems i used an alternator bearing from a 70s dodge alternator parts store cost 7 bucks! seals are 6 bucks and it takes longer to get it off than to rebuild it! i will figure out the part numbers an repost!

A little update on the mechanical pumps. I spoke to a friend who I consider one of the best performance boat mechanics. The stuff he works on is above my pay grade, so I go to him when I am frustrated and cannot get a straight answer. I also make an appointment to not interrupt his day. "All fuel pumps leak. If they are on the block, they leak into the engine oil. If it is mounted to the sea pump, it leaks into the sea pump oil" "You change your engine oil every few hours or season, it gets rid of the fuel that leaked into it. Change the sea pump oil at least each season or more often if needed. With the pump being mounted down it leaks more. Running the merc pumps, put a drain hole in it to make it easy." "Or go electric. Solves the leaking fuel into the reservoir issue."
For me, I may just run the mechanicals one more year and figure out the electric conversion for next season.

May or May not help
I am sure electric pumps now are managed in a similar way in non electronic engines
But back in. 1990 my 1988 omc block took a powder
industry had switched to electric pumps
they had a simple setup
That let the pump prime for a few seconds with key on
Then it would not cone back on until alt was producing a charge
I could see you with a simple relay set up

i did have to install a fuel cooler in the cooling water loop
as that pump got fuel very hot...so much so it boiled a time or 2
maybe to much flashback
but hey i just thought out loud

If you guys want to run an electric fuel pump its actually quite easy. I drew this up for another member years ago...not sure where i found the part numbers for the oil pressure sensor and the mating connector from (off the internet obviously) but i know this works.
you don't need to have the push button (prime) option or the led indicator if you don't want to but they found it useful. And if you wanted to take it one step farther just install a switch on any one of the legs going to the relay and have a security feature where the pumps will never start up unless the switch is in the on/run position for the pumps to work. The boat will start and run off of what ever fuel is left in the carb bowls but after they run out she's dead in the water

Wally thanks for that schematic. I did not realize the oil pressure switch was 3 wire. That makes a big difference in things. And I like the idea of a primer button!

Depends on what its made for.....most are two wire though.

SMP still makes the oil pressure switch. Your schematic was exactly what I needed. I just wanted a way to fill the bowls before cranking and that solves that. I could even put a switch in the bilge area and wire in the security feature. My routine is to check the oil and other fluids before the first start up. Hit the primer switch for 5 seconds after the last check, hop in the seat and hit the key. These things fire off cold with a single full throttle prime anyway.