Lets Build the Perfect 540
01-10-2003 | 12:30 PM
#41
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Hello Guys,
It depends on how much stress you are going to put on the engine. I always recommend American parts-they are usually better machined and quality controlled. Don't let anyone talk you into the "sportsman" version. If you balance it properly ,etc. you will spend more getting it done than if you spend more to start and get a better crank!!!
It depends on how much stress you are going to put on the engine. I always recommend American parts-they are usually better machined and quality controlled. Don't let anyone talk you into the "sportsman" version. If you balance it properly ,etc. you will spend more getting it done than if you spend more to start and get a better crank!!!
01-10-2003 | 02:06 PM
#42
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HEY ,I THINK BLOWN 1500 MEANT GET LUNITI PRO CRANK APPROX.1300.00 AND USE IT ,ALSO THE 572 REALLY WON'T LAST AS LONG AS THE 540 ,I THINK THIS IS WHY MERC JUMPED BACK TO A 540 ??? THE 4.25 OR 4.375 IS THE LARGEST STROKE I WOULD USE TO RIDE AROUND ON ,IF I WAS GOING FOR BEAR ,I WOULD NOT STOP AT A 4.5 STROKE I WOULD BUILD A 703 WHICH IS A KILLER N.A. MOTOR AND SAME BASIC PRICE AS A 572 ,
ON THE CRANK GET THE BOB WEIGHT OF THE MOTOR AND CALL LUNITI AND GIVE IT TO THEM AND THEY WILL SEND YOU THE CRANK BALANCED CLOSE ENOUGH TO SAVE YOU A TON ON HEAVY METAL ,,MALORRY METAL ,,, IN BALANCING ,THIS REALLY HELPS THE BOTTOM LINE $$$$$$,,,
ON THE CRANK GET THE BOB WEIGHT OF THE MOTOR AND CALL LUNITI AND GIVE IT TO THEM AND THEY WILL SEND YOU THE CRANK BALANCED CLOSE ENOUGH TO SAVE YOU A TON ON HEAVY METAL ,,MALORRY METAL ,,, IN BALANCING ,THIS REALLY HELPS THE BOTTOM LINE $$$$$$,,,
01-10-2003 | 05:27 PM
#44
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids Mi. U.S.
Blown 1500
Have you dynoed the AFR/Pro one heads back to back? What were the results?
If not, if you or anyone else wants to, my 565 will be on the dyno within the next two weeks. I have a set of 325 pro ones and a set of Dart big M heads to try. I would like to test a set of AFR's.
Have you dynoed the AFR/Pro one heads back to back? What were the results?
If not, if you or anyone else wants to, my 565 will be on the dyno within the next two weeks. I have a set of 325 pro ones and a set of Dart big M heads to try. I would like to test a set of AFR's.
Last edited by JimV; 01-10-2003 at 05:41 PM.
01-11-2003 | 02:55 AM
#45
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Uhm. Why not this? 540cids 9:1 (well actually a little less due to the slightly more piston chamber - 8.6:1 seems under my calculations) but, very solid.
Block: Merlin II CNC 4.50 Bore 9.8" Height
Crank: SCAT 4.250 Strk Req 6.135" rods.
Conrod: Oliver Billet 6.135"
Pistons: JE 'Flat Top' #106907 (9:1 w/ 124cc chamber)
- Deck Height: 9.8"
- Rod Length: 6.135" (2.200")
Heads: Merlin AL rect 345cc Solid roller.
Intake: Single plane.
Cam: Crane 138601 (if seems too radical for your desires), why not a Crane 131311?.
Carb: 830 - 850cfm.
Redline: 5800 - 6000rpm
Other choices can be a Callies crank and going to Oliver 6.385" rods and try to find some similar pistons to be mated with the longer conrods.
Isn't a complete engine, but add whatever you may think that need (oil cooler, oil pan, ignition, etc...) but the main base I think that is present and is quite serious hardware for a 'perfect 540'.
What you think about? (I know that isnt the perfect base for a blown engine) but sure you get enough HP for keeping it NA. And with an enough solid lower side for if someday you go balls out and blown it.
Block: Merlin II CNC 4.50 Bore 9.8" Height
Crank: SCAT 4.250 Strk Req 6.135" rods.
Conrod: Oliver Billet 6.135"
Pistons: JE 'Flat Top' #106907 (9:1 w/ 124cc chamber)
- Deck Height: 9.8"
- Rod Length: 6.135" (2.200")
Heads: Merlin AL rect 345cc Solid roller.
Intake: Single plane.
Cam: Crane 138601 (if seems too radical for your desires), why not a Crane 131311?.
Carb: 830 - 850cfm.
Redline: 5800 - 6000rpm
Other choices can be a Callies crank and going to Oliver 6.385" rods and try to find some similar pistons to be mated with the longer conrods.
Isn't a complete engine, but add whatever you may think that need (oil cooler, oil pan, ignition, etc...) but the main base I think that is present and is quite serious hardware for a 'perfect 540'.
What you think about? (I know that isnt the perfect base for a blown engine) but sure you get enough HP for keeping it NA. And with an enough solid lower side for if someday you go balls out and blown it.
Last edited by Andrea; 01-11-2003 at 05:05 AM.
01-11-2003 | 01:53 PM
#46
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No matter whose crank you use, use as long a rod as you can!!
Andrea's Scat crank is clearanced for a 6.135" rod. That means the weights are cut down OD to clear the piston wrist pin area. This also means it will be harder to balance. If you use a tall deck, a 6.8" rod will work great and, generally give the best results.
I have run several heads on the dyno and know several people I trust who have run even more and the AFR's seem to win. There are, however, many variables. Different heads require different cams, pistons, etc. to get the best results. All you have to do to get any compression ratio you want is to choose the piston, head gasket, and combustion chamber volume to get the desired rresult. I have had the best result with as small a combustion chamber as practical with a "D" dished piston to adjust the compression ratio.
Andrea's Scat crank is clearanced for a 6.135" rod. That means the weights are cut down OD to clear the piston wrist pin area. This also means it will be harder to balance. If you use a tall deck, a 6.8" rod will work great and, generally give the best results.
I have run several heads on the dyno and know several people I trust who have run even more and the AFR's seem to win. There are, however, many variables. Different heads require different cams, pistons, etc. to get the best results. All you have to do to get any compression ratio you want is to choose the piston, head gasket, and combustion chamber volume to get the desired rresult. I have had the best result with as small a combustion chamber as practical with a "D" dished piston to adjust the compression ratio.
01-11-2003 | 02:03 PM
#47
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Originally posted by blown1500
No matter whose crank you use, use as long a rod as you can!!
Andrea's Scat crank is clearanced for a 6.135" rod. That means the weights are cut down OD to clear the piston wrist pin area. This also means it will be harder to balance. If you use a tall deck, a 6.8" rod will work great and, generally give the best results.
No matter whose crank you use, use as long a rod as you can!!
Andrea's Scat crank is clearanced for a 6.135" rod. That means the weights are cut down OD to clear the piston wrist pin area. This also means it will be harder to balance. If you use a tall deck, a 6.8" rod will work great and, generally give the best results.
01-11-2003 | 09:18 PM
#48
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Hi Andrea!
NA or forced induction, a longer rod than a 6.135" with a 4.25" strock is a better idea. If you have not bought your parts yet, the crank made for the longer rod has better counterweights and will balance better for a LOT less money. The rods are the same price unless you are using the stock rod. The price of everything, by the time all is done, might not be so much more if you get the better crank and a set of Eagle rods. Always have a good machine shop check the Eagles!!
NA or forced induction, a longer rod than a 6.135" with a 4.25" strock is a better idea. If you have not bought your parts yet, the crank made for the longer rod has better counterweights and will balance better for a LOT less money. The rods are the same price unless you are using the stock rod. The price of everything, by the time all is done, might not be so much more if you get the better crank and a set of Eagle rods. Always have a good machine shop check the Eagles!!
06-01-2003 | 11:24 AM
#49
Registered
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,363
Likes: 165
From: Providence,RI
Re: Lets Build the Perfect 540
Originally posted by Audiofn
Hey you guys. I was talking to Biggus today and we came up with the 540 being the most flexible engine package out there. SO lets come up with the ideal 540 with a 7.5-1 to 8.0-1 compresion ratio (can easily add a blower later that way).
1) Best Block to use: Merlin, stock, Dart............
2) Tall deck or not
3) Crank
4) Rods
5) Pistons
6) Heads
7) Valves
8) Intake
9) Cam
So on and so forth
Lets figure it out together
Jon
Hey you guys. I was talking to Biggus today and we came up with the 540 being the most flexible engine package out there. SO lets come up with the ideal 540 with a 7.5-1 to 8.0-1 compresion ratio (can easily add a blower later that way).
1) Best Block to use: Merlin, stock, Dart............
2) Tall deck or not
3) Crank
4) Rods
5) Pistons
6) Heads
7) Valves
8) Intake
9) Cam
So on and so forth
Lets figure it out together
Jon
Guys can we keep this thread going lots of intersting opions in here.
So what is the perfect 540?????
Relability.
Flexible (Addition of a blower lator)
Any comments or suggestions please respond??????
Caveman
06-01-2003 | 12:25 PM
#50
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by blown1500
Hi Andrea!
NA or forced induction, a longer rod than a 6.135" with a 4.25" strock is a better idea. If you have not bought your parts yet, the crank made for the longer rod has better counterweights and will balance better for a LOT less money. The rods are the same price unless you are using the stock rod. The price of everything, by the time all is done, might not be so much more if you get the better crank and a set of Eagle rods. Always have a good machine shop check the Eagles!!
Hi Andrea!
NA or forced induction, a longer rod than a 6.135" with a 4.25" strock is a better idea. If you have not bought your parts yet, the crank made for the longer rod has better counterweights and will balance better for a LOT less money. The rods are the same price unless you are using the stock rod. The price of everything, by the time all is done, might not be so much more if you get the better crank and a set of Eagle rods. Always have a good machine shop check the Eagles!!
Reading from other people and the advice that many gave to them, found this cam and wanted to ask if would be good or probably other will be better:
Crane Cams 131311.
Main problem is that cam is for mechanical lifters not solid rollers which came on the AFR's , any Crane # equivalent for solid rollers? Would be good to spin such big pistons up to 6000 or 6100 rpms? Engine was made as bulletproof as he can afford (this week I'll post all the data regarding the parts used, only that I surely remember in this moment is the block who is a Merlin aluminium tall deck decked up to 10.180" and the AFR's which were a custom assembly.
