dyno

well most of us are running 454"s so lets build the best stroker we can for the money!I have Merlin oval port heads and rpm intakes with 850 holleys to start with will they be ok?What about the stroker kits? Valve train?Machining do's and donts?

mcollinstn

Okay.
A 496 (4.375" arm).
Twenty dollars.

Do I win?
Do you need an address to ship it to?

dyno

ttt

Washed Away

4.310 x 4.25 = 496 c.i.

Waterfoul

So how do you really go about this? Offset grind the crank? Or do you need to get a new crank. I know you need new rods but do you have to get new pistons too? Can the rings get below the bottom of the bore???

Mines apart right now.....

blown1500

The 4.375" stroke is the GM version of a 496 with a stock 4.25" bore. The more powerful version is a 4.310" bore and a 4.25" stroke. There are many things to consider here and, no matter which stroke you use, a bigger bore unshrouds the valves and, generally run better. Also, the longer stroke limits how long the rod can be and the longer the rod, the longer your bores, pistons, and rings will last. A short deck will accomodate a 6.385: rod and still have room for the rings. The 4.25" stroke version will generally outrun the 4.385" stroke version (both still 496) on top end and the 4.385" stroke wins at low rpm and wears faster. The truck get away with this because they only turn in the 4,000rpm range.

bago Baja

Longer stroke at same displacement = more loss to friction across the board. Bore wins!

dyno

Thanks guys ! Glad to see some action on this post I was beginning to wonder ....I've been looking at the stroker kits offered by Flatlander Racing they seem to have many different combinations as far as crank rod combo's . Id make a link but dont know how....anyone ever delt with them?wich crank combo would you use?

GO4BROKE

iTrader: (1)

I've thought about this subject too. You can also just buy a 502 shortblock from catalogs for about 3K each if I remember the price right.

mcollinstn

'bago

4.5" bore has 5% greater circumference than 4.25" bore. This would create 5% more friction drag on a 4.5" bore motor...

4.375" stroke travels 3% farther than a 4.25" stroke motor.

Ring friction is a component of ring tension which is affected by the tension of the ring pack PLUS the gas pressure acting on the backside of the top ring. Since most pressure exists during the first third of the power stroke, I would say that the circumference of the ring would affect the friction more than the distance traveled (friction reaches its peak at the point of reversion of the piston at the top and at the bottom).

I'm not debating anything on any stroke-related friction component being more horsepower-friendly when comparing a bore motor to a stroke motor. I just don't think that increased bore adds increased friction due to increased piston travel distance versus a same-displacement bore motor.

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Since the original question related to a 454 stroker motor I assumed that he meant a stock bore...

I agree 100% with the benefits of a 4.5 - 4.6" bore in a canted valve GM bigblock.

If we are talking about best BigBlock combo, we get into tallblocks and longrod stroker motors with big bores and it just snowballs.

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My original post was kind of a joke (unless somebody wants to really ship me a stroker motor for twenty bucks).

A 4.25" stroke and a .060" overbore on a 454 with forged pistons setup to use the longest available rod. Now we're paying for custom pistons and aftermarket rods. Where does the dollar/hp curve get unattractive???