Drive couplers don't need no grease!!
04-14-2003, 08:15 PM
#11
Registered
Jerry,
Give Brace a call, he can hook you up with the parts cheap. He suggested you replace them as well. No huge hurry, just grease her up and take it easy for a bit.
Give Brace a call, he can hook you up with the parts cheap. He suggested you replace them as well. No huge hurry, just grease her up and take it easy for a bit.
04-15-2003, 06:56 AM
#12
Charter Member
Tim,
May do that just to have the parts for when if they go before I get to them. My plate is really full right now, no time. I know, I'll find time when I need too.
There were no signs of rubber anywhere.
As far as the alignment tool not going in, it is in the splines, not the bearing. I made up a couple of short 3" dummy stubs to check for fit be inserting inside from the engine compartment. This bypasses the bearing al together, so I know that is not the problem. If it looked like an easy job, it would be done. The joy of twin motors!
Thanks all
May do that just to have the parts for when if they go before I get to them. My plate is really full right now, no time. I know, I'll find time when I need too.
There were no signs of rubber anywhere.
As far as the alignment tool not going in, it is in the splines, not the bearing. I made up a couple of short 3" dummy stubs to check for fit be inserting inside from the engine compartment. This bypasses the bearing al together, so I know that is not the problem. If it looked like an easy job, it would be done. The joy of twin motors!
Thanks all
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
04-15-2003, 07:09 AM
#13
Thanks for the replies....
When I took my drives off I feel they didn't come off as well as they should have and they were DRY---I just stood there and shook my head. I think I will put some Anti Seize on it and use the ball bearing grease from then on. One thing that I have noticed about Anti Seize is that it never seems to go away even by water. I also put it on my prop shafts and on the pin/hinge of my drive guard on my trailer. Usually, I need a hammer or block of wood to knock out that pin, but since I have put some Anti Seize on it, it only takes a smaller amount of effort to pull it out by hand---and IT NEVER SEEMS TO GO AWAY!
Jerry, didn't really mean to tread on your thread...sorry bro.
Jerry, didn't really mean to tread on your thread...sorry bro.
Last edited by KAAMA; 04-15-2003 at 07:11 AM.
04-15-2003, 07:10 PM
#16
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Honeoye, NY
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You won't see rubber till it's too late, but that is rarely what fails from misalignment. What you get 95% of the time is a "no go" situation with lots of little alluminum flakes just below the coupler area inside the boat. The outdrive(s) and engine(s) must be removed to replace the coupler. Consider doing it NOW. It's a real B*#+h 20 miles out. --- Jer
04-15-2003, 07:11 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
LOOKOUT FOR ANTI SEIZE!!!
If you use the regular stuff it will rust like nothing you have ever seen! 3M sells a marine grade anti seize that will not rust in the wet environment. I made the mistake and paid!! This is FACT... check it out before you step in a bucket of she-it...
If you use the regular stuff it will rust like nothing you have ever seen! 3M sells a marine grade anti seize that will not rust in the wet environment. I made the mistake and paid!! This is FACT... check it out before you step in a bucket of she-it...
