While flushing the t-502's on 32 Fever, I discovered that port motor was not switching to "open" exhaust. Starboard works fine. Any thoughts on problem, cost, and/or ease of repair ? Under normal operating conditions, with the exhaust exiting under the swimstep, the problem went undetected.

Any help with this is sure appreciated. . . .

Friend's Baja was having same prob.
Check relay, bad or loose wires.
Red reset button on engine also worked for him the other day.

Two years ago, two of the four solenoids quit working on my Corsa Electronic Switching Exhaust. If you call Corsa, they will give you a standard generic response about turning in the set screw on the actuator rod. All this does, is pre load the rod and place it deeper into the magnetic "flux" field. It might fix the problem, but it's a band aid fix.

I traced this problem on a weekend and learned that these systems use 2 different magnets per solenoid. A "pulling" magnet and a "holding" magnet. The holding magnet can stay on for days without burning up, but the pulling magnet can only before activated for about 3 seconds. Anything longer than that, and the magnetic properties of the metal start to change due to the heat build up.

What failed on my system was the “pulling” magnets. I would turn on the exhaust, and for three seconds you could see the actuators trying to pull open the solenoids, then it would go back to the closed position. What I would have to do then, is open the hatch and pull the little exhaust levers by hand into the “open” position. Since the “holding” magnets were still working, the exhaust would stay open for as long as the holding coils were energized.

Here’s the kick in the d ick! When I swapped what I though was the bad solenoids to the other motor… the seemingly bad solenoids performed flawlessly! Something was wrong in the wiring harness. I pulled out the volt-o-meter and only saw 9 volts (even with the engine running) powering the pulling coils. Corsa replaced the wiring harness free of charge.

I don’t know what type of control system Corsa uses to switch their solenoids… but it both sucks AND blows. I was about ready to totally redesign the entire wiring harness with a little push button that would temporarily activate the pulling coils while the holding coils would still be on a switch. I put the new harness on last winter and worked OK all last year, but I could see the pulling magnets starting to move pretty slowly. Especially on those cooler days.

One other problem I found that wasn’t quite as severe, is that the solenoids needs to lined up pretty straight with the actuator rod. If the rod is off by more than a degree or two, it will bind and cause a lot of friction when trying to open.

Is it mercruiser silent choice or another brand? I have the merc system which works off of air pressure not selonoids. I have had a lot of problems with mine not staying open. It's been back to the shop a few times and they seem to think it is the check valve that is bad. I end up taking tie wraps to keep it open all the time.

Dave M.

Dave M,

I had the same problem and I found a small air leak at one of the compression fittings. Brush some soapy water on each of the joints. (While the system is pressurized/open) If there is a leak you will know quickly. I just cut the leaking line 1/4 inch shorter and never had a problem again.

Steve

I have there reverse corsa open when unpowered
I made a harness with a push button that powers the
close coil, and a toggle switch to the hold coil and a led to show power is on
all this must be done with relays not with long wire runs, voltage will drop quite a bit on 10 or 15 feet of 12ga wire 10 gauge would work ok but if you use relays it can be done with 14ga-18ga

my 29 outlaw had 3 quit working this weekend, only one would open and close with the switch[corsa capt. call] my setup is electric, it turned out to be a bad connection at one of the dead solenoids, follow the harness from the solenoid down, about 8 to 12 inches down is a 4pin connector, check each one by unplugging them, inspect for loose connection are like my corrosion, clean each one with contact cleaner then wd40 are something like that, plug them back in and reset your breaker, mine was on the starboard side right next to my trim pump, they work like new now

[QUOTE=H2Xmark;560218]my 29 outlaw had 3 quit working this weekend, only one would open and close with the switch[corsa capt. call] my setup is electric, it turned out to be a bad connection at one of the dead solenoids, follow the harness from the solenoid down, about 8 to 12 inches down is a 4pin connector, check each one by unplugging them, inspect for loose connection are like my corrosion, clean each one with contact cleaner then wd40 are something like that, plug them back in and reset your breaker, mine was on the starboard side right next to my trim pump, they work like new now[/QUOTE
Thanks man....this really helped me out!

[QUOTE=H2Xmark;560218]my 29 outlaw had 3 quit working this weekend, only one would open and


close with the switch[corsa capt. call] my setup is electric, it turned out to be a bad connection at one of the dead solenoids, follow the harness from the solenoid down, about 8 to 12 inches down is a 4pin connector, check each one by unplugging them, inspect for loose connection are like my corrosion, clean each one with contact cleaner then wd40 are something like that, plug them back in and reset your breaker, mine was on the starboard side right next to my trim pump, they work like new now[/QUOTE
Thanks man....this really helped me out!

Thanks man...this really helped me out...cleaned all contacts and working again!