Question. Why change oil again in the spring time?

Awesome list. I will be doing it for the first time and was wondering if someone had put a list together.

Thanks

Love Machine...good question! And to be 100% honest i dont know if you realy absolutly have to or not. I have always gone by the 3months/3000mile rule reguardless of use on my trucks. True the boat will be out of service for 5 months or so depending on where you live but i guess to answer you r question i think it would be because the oil is acting as a protectant. Its there to keep moisture from penitrating to the metal and rusting. Also has to catch dust and any other contaminants etc. "But the boat doesnt run at all the whole time" you say.....true but there is still dust in the air which will settle in the oil...probably not enough to make any impact on anything but why risk a $3000+ rebuild on a $20 oil change? I'm sure someone with a better oil experience background can better answer that question.

I had always heard that you change it again because of the condensation collecting in the oil, but that should all boil off the first time you run it, assuming that your oil temps are getting to a decent temperature. Personally, I think it would be fine to change it once with before the layup, and then just run it next spring until your next oil change interval. I couldn't see that much dust getting inside the engine while it is just sitting there, especially if it is under cover. I would recommend changing it along with the winterization, and also before you start it up to fog it, so that the acids that build up in the old oil don't have all winter to do nasty things to your bearing surfaces. JMO...

Of course, if you have $20K wrapped up in your engine, peace of mind is probably worth more than the $20 bucks or so that it takes to change it again.

Thanks Wally. Great list!

One question. How much oil do I add to each seperator? 2oz?, 4oz?, 6oz?,or?

Thanks
BTW when I mix my antifreeze with water I use HOT water. So as not to shock the thermostats into closing.
I do this because by the time I get around to winterizing it's usually colder than the shady side of an iceburg.

This year I may remove them.

OK....did two outboards this weekend and spotted some other missing itmes that have been added
added to the parts list:

-2 stroke oil
-holding tank deodorizer (head)
Bowl and seal cleaner (head)


Erie Desire, i usually just pour about half of the gass out of the fuel/water seepperator and fill it with the teh 2 cycle...works fine

Oxidation starts affecting oil and it's lubricity properties the minute it is exposed to the atmoshere.

Another addition to the list....

- Add zincs where needed

This could be a whole topic in itself. Where are they located? When to change? Etc...

I'll be replacing the zincs behind my props (bravo 1) this fall.

Zinks have been added to #18 and to the parts section!

GET ALL BEAR AND SODA OFF THE BOAT!!!!!! I have seen it explode in peoples boats and man does it make a mess.

Jon