Loose Outdrive?
#13
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Ok, disconnected the arm from the ram and it definetly seems the arm is loose on the pin. I think the ring is OK. I can reach through the transom where the arm goes thru from the inside and can feel the nut and bolt but not sure if would be able to tighten, not much room. Anyone know what size the bolt/nut should be? Figure I'll try this before tearing it apart.
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RMM, as Ragtop said it is possible to remove the gimbal without yanking the motor. Send me an email if you want to talk about it. I've done it on my boat, and helped a friend do the same on his.
When you DO get it apart, you may find what I did, the nut and bolt had NO thread left to tighten it down. Merc uses a carraige bolt here, and the nut was up against the end of the thread. I put a stainless washer under the bolt head and reinstalled the bolt and nut. Tightened it right up. NO play.
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Mike
When you DO get it apart, you may find what I did, the nut and bolt had NO thread left to tighten it down. Merc uses a carraige bolt here, and the nut was up against the end of the thread. I put a stainless washer under the bolt head and reinstalled the bolt and nut. Tightened it right up. NO play.
[email protected]
Mike
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Waterfoul...
Waterfoul and all, thanks. Definetly think the arm is loose on the pin, as when disconnect steering ram, can easily move the arm @ 2" each direction before it "tightens up/catches" and moves the drive. Would like to see if can do this. So you say it can bve done w/out removing the gimbal housing and the engine?
How hard is it to remove the drive, gimbal ring, etc? I would say I am a weekend mechanic but may try to give it a shot. Need to go pick up a manual first.
Do the lower unit and leg come off as one piece, leaving you at the bell housing? Does the bell housing have to be removed? As you can see I haven't done this before.
If you could explain further that would be great. Will I still need the access hole plug kit? Not real excited about drilling holes in the drive.
I was able to get a wrench on the bolt and nut from the inside, but wouldn't budge, think as you said it is all the way tight.
Thanks for any input.
How hard is it to remove the drive, gimbal ring, etc? I would say I am a weekend mechanic but may try to give it a shot. Need to go pick up a manual first.
Do the lower unit and leg come off as one piece, leaving you at the bell housing? Does the bell housing have to be removed? As you can see I haven't done this before.
If you could explain further that would be great. Will I still need the access hole plug kit? Not real excited about drilling holes in the drive.
I was able to get a wrench on the bolt and nut from the inside, but wouldn't budge, think as you said it is all the way tight.
Thanks for any input.
#17
RMM well if you look close at my second photo in post #11 you will see the "pin" it is rusty and is probably just as slopy in the gimble ring as the arm is on the "pin" as the arm is steal the "pin" is steal but the gimble ring is aluminum.
In my last photo you will see were the drive unbolts from the bell housing. you can take it apart were mine changes colors but it is not needed.
It is real easy I would read the shop manual first and you will need to buy a tool to take the bolts "piviot pins" out of were the bell and the gimble atach to each other.
If you are able to get to all 8 nuts on the inside that hold the gimble housing onto the boat then NO you dont have to drill the holes in you gimble housing.
Rag's
In my last photo you will see were the drive unbolts from the bell housing. you can take it apart were mine changes colors but it is not needed.
It is real easy I would read the shop manual first and you will need to buy a tool to take the bolts "piviot pins" out of were the bell and the gimble atach to each other.
If you are able to get to all 8 nuts on the inside that hold the gimble housing onto the boat then NO you dont have to drill the holes in you gimble housing.
Rag's
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