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Rotted transom / 26' scarab

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Old 06-13-2004, 09:37 PM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

Originally Posted by Cord
Through your searched you'll come across a "pourable transom filler". The product looks pretty neat. You take your rotted transom (which is hollow) and you pour this product into it. Presto! A new transom! I call BS! The transom will be heavy and have poor structural integrety. This might work for a 18' fishing boat, but it's not acceptable for a high performance boat.



Sea Cast is not at all heavy. In fact it might even be lighter than wood. I could probably lift a 5 gallon pail with one finger.

Its proven to be 3 times stronger than wood.

And You say Sea Cast is not acceptable for a high performance boat............

Well then you should call Callan Marine and notify them of this. They manufacture the worlds fastest pleasure boat, running over 200 mph.............. They use a Sea Cast transom.


What the hell were they thinking LOL
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Old 06-13-2004, 11:08 PM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

I see no problems with this product. But how are you getting all the old wood out of the transom. Mine was rotted but in no way hollow.
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Old 06-14-2004, 06:01 PM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

You have to cut the inner transom wall out and remove all the wood. then you make a plywood form to pore the secast in. remove the form and glass it over.

To repair a stringer just cut the top of the stringer off and pick, chisel, grind, chop, what ever it takes to get the wood out. when you are finished just pore in the sea cast and cap it with fiber glass. This is what I had to do.

. My stringers were 2" in from the cut out in the floor for the gas tank. There was no way I could if got a solid piece of wood in there. If I didn have the Sea Cast the only way I could of did the repair would of been to completely separate the deck from the hull or cut out the entire floor of the boat. If wood was my only choice to do the repair I would of rather gutted the hull and tossed it in the dumpster. Either way it was no easy task. It took several weeks and a lot of help from my friends. If I had to pay someone to do this job I would say it would of cost well over $10k

I cant say Sea cast made the job easier but it sure made it possible. Yes it was a ***** of a job but well worth it in the end to know that she can never Rot again. She is also solid as a brick and rides better than ever.
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Old 06-17-2004, 07:37 AM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

Any thoughts on Sea Cast? Also how much epoxy should I plan on buying for this project.
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Old 06-17-2004, 07:48 AM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

Thanks to this info I will use the west system epoxy or sea cast if I can find more info. Keep in mind when reading that my hull is kevlar. (Vinylester resins are stronger than polyester resins and cheaper than epoxy resins. Vinylester resins utilize a polyester resin type of cross-linking molecules in the bonding process. Vinylester is a hybrid form of polyester resin which has been toughened with epoxy molecules within the main moleculer structure. Vinyester resins offer better resistance to moisture absorption than polyester resins but it's downside is in the use of liquid styrene to thin it out (not god to breath that stuff) and its sensitivity to atmospheric moisture and temperature. Sometimes it won't cure if the atmospheric conditions are not right. It also has difficulty in bonding dissimilar and already-cured materials. It is not unusual for repair patches on vinylester resin canoes to delaminate or peel off. As vinylester resin ages, it becomes a different resin so new vinylester resin sometimes resists bonding to your older canoe. It is also known that vinylester resins bond very well to fiberglass, but offer a poor bond to kevlar and carbon fibers. Do to the touchy nature of vinylester resin, careful surface preparation is necessary if reasonable adhesion is desired for any repair work.)
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Old 06-17-2004, 08:56 AM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

Kmiller,
I just looked at the pictures of your boat. It been on our lake quite a while. The last time I saw it out was probably 5-6 years ago.
I cruised down Martin the other day on the way to my parents house (they live a few streets away from you) to see if you were out. You must have the boat in a garage or something.
Good luck with your repairs , looking forward to see that boat out again.
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Old 06-23-2004, 07:38 AM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

well I've picked a new look for the engine. New valve covers and oil pan, also painted and cleaned every part. Sholud look new in the engine compartment when finished.
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Old 06-23-2004, 09:15 AM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

I bought the five gallon bucket of epoxy/one gallon of slow hardner. My transom repair was about 96 inches at it's widest point and about 30 inches tall. I will have used about 75% of the material after it is all said and done.
I'll post pics today on the project. Check my username later.

Good luck- Bryan
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Old 06-23-2004, 02:24 PM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

I am new to this site but, the only suggestion I have is do not use any silicone as a sealer any wear. It don't hold up for any thing. if you are looking for something similiar use 3M 5200. This stuff is burly. When rigging outboards I would use a large amount around the bolt holes. When the engines(150 hp++) would needed to be removed I would have to jump on the outboard to break the seal
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Old 06-23-2004, 03:39 PM
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Default Re: Rotted transom / 26' scarab

Perhaps Call seacast, tell them of your concerns. if they are that confident of the product, they could send you a finished sample.

Bash that about a bit, but dont forget to tell us what you think too.

Steve
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