BRUCE SEROFF

I've been told, when I bought my old trailer, trailers over a certain GVW, must have a mechanism installed to keep the trailer from inadvertantly rolling backward when not hooked up to the rig. There is usually an additional wire in the harness that needs to come from your reverse lights to disengage the brakes. My new trailer has drum brakes and I do not have the reverse brake mechanism. Im not sure if this only comes on disk brakes.

outlawinil

My 2000 tri axle w/disc has a 5 pin electrical connecter. You cannot back this trailer with a boat on on level ground unless you hook up the extra 5th wire to the trailer brake light feed. I cannot move this trailer in reverse on wet grass empty without the electric hooked up. My buddy's 2001 25 Outlaw with a tandem trailer is the same way. The trailer gets power from the tow vehicle's backup lights to cancel out the trailer brakes. Obviously it only cancels the brakes when you have the tow vehicle in reverse. Of course if you are backing down a ramp or hill the surge system is released and you are relying on your tow vehicle only for stopping. Thats why I laugh when guys on here say their 1/2 ton truck handles their 38' or so boat with no problems.

mopower

Now that you've heard all the other stories , all of which are pretty accurate , here's the bottom line . If everything is installed and working properly , you can still have problems backingup sometimes.
When you initially come to a forward stop you brakes are engaged....if you immediately try to back up you won't be able to , why? Because you brakes are still applied and no lockout in the world is going to change that!
Whatcha gotta do is roll forward a foot or two and without hitting the brakes( this releases the surge unit on the tongue) then shift to reverse to actuate the lockout. Now the brakes are off and you can back up

I also had a lockout solenoid go bad and would allow leakage of brake fluid past it. Quick , level back up at the ramp was ok but trying to back up my driveway would cause problems and I had to pull forward and hit reverse again a few time to get in.

CMG

I should start a new thread on this - anyone know how much work/cash to swap out my surge for electric? I already have new truck with the right plug. My surge selinoid needs repair so figured would go the nine yards.

rouxsterre

After coming up with my 'ingenious' plan with the 'C' clamp, and the steel shims, I took the boat to the ramp today. I figure before I break out the jury-rig hardware, I'll just give it a go. Trailer worked flawlessly.

It has happened before, and WILL happen again. It's not electrical.
Next time it happens, I'm gonna give the 'mopower' solution a try:
Given the specifics/constraints of my specific hardware, it seems to make the most sense.

mcollinstn

Surge brakes don't have anything electrical to MAKE them actuate.

BUT

They *can* have a lockout solenoid to keep them from actuating in reverse. I've read several explanations on this thread and all are correct, but it sounds like some guys still don't see the whole picture.

We all know that with surge brakes, mashing the trailer towards the truck pushes the master cylinder on the surge tongue and sends pressure to the brakes (drum, disc, or otherwise). This is what makes them work. This is also what makes them lock up in reverse.

What exists to keep them from working in reverse? Several things.

1) Mechanical lockout - pin or latch that provides a mechanical barrier that keeps the tongue from pushing back in the master cylinder far enough to actuate the brakes. This mechanical lockout can be a pin or block or latch. They can be operated by walking back there and activating the lockout OR by an electric solenoid that does it for you. Regardless of the method of actuation, the tongue needs to be "out" or in the pulling position for the barrier to lock into place. This is what has been addressed in several posts in this thread.

2) Hydraulic lockout- similar to a "line lock" on a drag car. A solenoid closes off and disconnects the hydraulics of the master cylinder from the brakes themselves. This can be used two ways. One, if the trailer is in "pull" position when the solenoid is activated, it keeps the brakes from being effective and will allow the trailer to roll freely in either direction. Two, if the trailer is in "stopping" position with the plunger on the tongue pushed into the master cylinder, the brakes will REMAIN activated with the solenoid closed - I have seen this used as a parking brake type setup (these particular solenoids have a hand operated lock that keeps them closed when the power is removed).

3) One way brakes. Disc or drum, there are several types of reverse brake releases that will "cam out" the brakes in reverse and even though they are technically receiving pressure from the master cyl, they cannot grab the wheel in reverse. I have this type in one way drums and it works beautifully.

On any of the electric lockouts, they can be wired so that your reverse circuit (same circuit your backup lights are on) will activate it, OR they can be some "weird" way of activating. Severaly Mycos I have towed require you to stop, disconnect the harness, plug in a small 2-connector plug, and turn on the truck headlights to lock out the brakes...

Roux may have a mechanical lockout, a solenoid operated mechanical lockout, one way brakes, or nothing at all. An inspection will be required to determine what he has and if something is not functioning properly.

As far as the argument about surge versus electric brakes. I personally like surge brakes very well, even though I always have access to trucks with electric brake controllers on them.

Downtown42

My Myco backs up fine with surge brakes. All is I have to do is look in the mirror and shift into reverse. 1992. I have known some people with these problems on other brands.

mopower

rouxsterre , good work. I had this problem when I first converted to discs myself. It got to the point I had it in 4 wheel low(and smokin the tires ) trying to get into my driveway. Also seen others at the ramp with the same problem. Works everytime

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Drum brakes don't work as well in reverse, which is why you can still back them up with with more throttle. Disc brakes work equally in forward and reverse. Ever notice that when backing down the launch ramp, your trucks front wheels will lock up and slide while your rear wheels still turn?? Front = disc. rear= drum.
The cure is a simple $30 reversing lockout. But go with the deluxe reversing solinoid. It is only a couple $$$ more and will bleed off ALL trailer brake pressure when the truck is put in reverse, where as the less expensive model will not. In other words, if you come to a stop and the trailer brakes are engaged then you try to back up, ain't going to happen since all you did was to block the line pressure still on the brake sides. It does require either locating a cap with a return line, or drilling and tapping into the master cyl reservior to bleed off the line pressure.

rouxsterre

You guys are awesome.