rich allen

All good replies to an obviously common problem for many. A couple years ago , my reverse lockout solenoid crapped out, and I needed to make a quick fix to get me going and be able to back up when needed. I simply went to auto parts store, and bought some short lengths of brake line. I tied into the brake line just after the actuator, and put a small ball valve in line with the system. I have it mounted right on top of the tongue behind the actuator. Problem solved. When I need to back up, my wifey jumps out and closes the valve. Works like a charm, and I never did bother to get another solenoid since. It is nice to be able to completely eliminate any potential electrical malfunction in the system.Just be sure you are not already pressurizing the system before you close the valve. And remember to open the valve again when you are under way again on the road. Hey, it may sound primitive, but it works for me.

russ

I've had this problem before also. I have disk brakes on a Roadrunner trailer. Only time I have a problem is backing up into the driveway since it is an incline the brakes will engage.

To stop it from doing it. You have to TURN ON your lights. Unhook the trailer plug. Then on the trailer side wiring there is a flat connector with blue wire. You will plug just the blue wire into the connector on the truck side. (Can't remember which hole it goes into on the truck side) It will look like a T when you plug it in and you will acctually here it click when you plug the blue wire in IF you have your lights on. Then back up no problems.

Hope that makes sense?

Russ

ofshore

That would be my guess too, another problem i noticed is when i'm backing mine up the drive way if i stop for some reason and put the vehicle in park, disengaging the lockout solenoid, the pressure that the solenoid was holding back feeds to the brakes so when you put it back in reverse their will be a little pressure on the brakes, not enough to keep you from backing up but enough to make the brakes drag, you just have to roll forward a little and put it in reverse again to relieve the residual pressure.

If the problem is intermittent i would just replace the solenoid their only about $30 and if that's not the problem you'll have a spare because the c-clamp deal has to be a pita.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

That is why the deluxe solonoid is best, it relieves the pressure whenever activated. When I ordered my Eagle last summer with the B.U solonoid installed, it was a $200 option. I 'assumed' it would be the deluxe model for that price. I was wrong. Had trailer for 1 month before I changed it over because I also have to back up my inclined driveway and have to reposition a couple times to get it straight into the garage.

Lofty

US1 I had the same problem when I converted. The "good" solenoid is worth every penny and cures all these problems. Zodiac sells a solenoid that isn't worth a sh*t. I'll check my records and post the good brand later on. I got it from SB Trailers in Fresno CA.

When converting you MUST remove the diaphragm from inside the master cylinder. This diaphragm is necessary for drums as they require somewhat higher pressures and need back pressure in the system to work. Discs however, require very low pressures and will not tolerate ANY back pressure.

mcollinstn

Drum brakes work just as well in reverse as they do in forward. UNLESS they are double leading shoe brakes like you find on sporting motorcycles made before the advent of modern hydraulic discs (which DO stop better in one direction than the other).

The reason your truck's fronts lock up while the rear's don't is two reasons.
1) on a boat ramp, the front end is lightly loaded while the rear end has all the weight transfer on it (not to mention the tongue weight).
2) on a car/truck, the rear brakes receive only a portion of the braking pressure. Most of the braking is done with the fronts, and they receive the lion's share of the pressure. That's what the brake proportioning valve does. Limits the pressure to the rear.

Pressure for pressure, drums generally require less line pressure (but more fluid volume) than discs (which require more line pressure and less fluid volume). Do a disc conversion on any 60's musclecar and you'll see the difference in the master cylinder pistons (disc masters have smaller pistons, for more pressure). Good reason for this: discs have only a fraction of the surface area of friction material and also act on a smaller effective diameter than a similar drum. Nobody chose discs cause they provided MORE stopping force, they chose them because they were more fade resistant (easier to cool), require no periodic adjustment, and provide a more linear braking feel. They're good on trailer cause they don't trap saltwatr in their innards.

Trailer brakes are another issue. If your drum-braked trailer backs up easily, you may need to adjust the brakes OR you may have one-way backing plates that twist the pads out of the way when rolling in reverse.

Hi-Tech Marine

Problems are related to the brake units themselves. MYCO uses the same surge units as others. MYCO, also uses a reverse lock out on the disk systems.

If you have a reverse lock out.... Check the wire for the reverse in your plug to ensure consistent power and a solid connection.

If that is good apply a 12V hot (+) wire and ensure actuation (you can hear the solenoid activation).

If you do not have a solenoid on the back of the actuator (omitted by some manufacturers and listed as an option) add one and problem solved.

Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions.