Solenoid kits are $1,200 per engine? That seems far too much. Not that much in parts involved to make that.

This is a common problem with any engine, the size is not the issue usually, its the cam. At low RPM's the engine can barely hold idle and the quick load change can cause a stall. You can try to adjust your idle screw to bring the indle up ever so slightly. I would not go over 800rpm in gear, which is probably 1100 out. This may cure your stall problem, but will put some extra wear on your clutch.

I agree with Wette Vette----many times it has to do with the 4-corner idling mixture screws. I had one of my engines doing the same thing only with a Bravo One set-up. The Port engine kept dying as I went to put it in gear. I remember someone telling me about adusting the 4-corner idling screws on my carbs (as Wette Vette expains). Before I did it, I remember thinking, "How could the idle mixture screws fix a shifting problem ???". But I adjusted them and it worked!

The idle step up is neat but you better hang on! A friend has them on 900 Sterlings and it is tough around docks. Go into gear and the solenoid has it going to 1000 which is nuts. Probably should drop down to the minimum idle rpm and it wouldn't be bad.

Went through this pain with my blown 454. Finally changed to merc V-6 ignition module has less overall advance so you can run more intitial timing. Works wonders for engine dying. Did a two step . New V-6 module with 16 degrees initial and set idle to 750 RPM with mixture screws while in gear. Prior to that would die out at anything less than 1100 RPM going into gear with initial around 8 degrees. Its all because of the cam.