Linnie you guessed right

Thanks, yea the Whipples are hard on the drives,mines at 860TQ,JC Perf did a build with the 2300, he was spinning it pretty hard.ported stock heads,I think it was around 800.We were playing with my motor on the Dyno at Precision Marine to see how much it could make on race gas 11.5lbs it had 957 peek TQ,yes it would prob not hold up in the boat at that tune up.Remember its just a 500efi

I"ve have not had any failures,"Yet" the head gasket shows some lifting at the 1-2 O'Clock position on 3-7-2-6.Even the stock head gaskets showed some on the first tear down.My Buddy at Fel-Pro said thats lifting,the week spot because of no bolt hole,the aftermarket blocks and heads have the extra bolt holes,so it doesn't lift in that area bad ,makes it equal on the wire, Jerry/Fel Pro even has a clamp load tester to ck to see if my head bolts were clamping the right amount, this last tear down he wanted me to add 5lbs to the TQThere saying its going into a little detonation and lifting the head showing the carbon tracking,he said it sets back down and seals back up,Not blown,see picks, the edge of the head gasket wire hasn't been showing any dents or etching, just the lifting.I send my head gaskets back to him every winter/tear down, he tells me whats going on and then sends me a new set,Its been like this from the beginning,I didn't tear down the motors winter of 07 just took them out and re polished every thingso the motor has 2 summers and 104 hours on the last rering.The end of 08 I was running it harder than Ive ever have,thats when it was picking up speed and I kept trying,back to back wfo,6000rpm.Same boost,Cold out side ,cold water, Oct booster no gas down hill etc,Until I got all I could, it picked up from 102.1 to 105.1.I tore it down after those runs,Oct end of season so if it blows ya don't miss any boating ended up having a upper gear and a lower set fixing to come apart, it had broken the gimble pin, its had almost 1 inch of slack in the skeg from side to side, there was allot going on in those last passesI did a leak down its in another thread"puke tank oil"so we bead honed it ,rings and bearings, Ill post picks of the bearings theres was no weird wearing so not much flexing, no cap chatter,oil pumps looked good,a couple lite marks,cam and lifter surface showed the normal wear,the Comp 929's were down 5lbd, shimmed it back to 155lb, so next tear down ill put some better springs in it.We just relaped in the valves,seats looked good,no etching on the valves,cleaned up the head surface because the gaskets leave a hell of a mess on the surface.Gunned it back together,not

O yea I repolished everything,that makes it run better

Now I'm waiting on my paint/fiberglass shop on the hull,he's had it since Dec ,he's got me by the balls but I have a big project going on, redoing the rest of the interior,engine compartment,painting transom,the factory didn't even gel over on the exhaust cut out holesrepainting from the rub rail up, fixing all the little scratches, and reclearing all of it, I had them wet sand and BUFF the bottom,to close up all the pores?it had gotten to etched/staining and it had some air voids,I wanted the bottom to look like new,after the thought they finished the bottom Ive been under it twice putting tape on the spots thieve missed, they knew that I was anal,prob not this bad,but he's charging like Rip.Ive rebuilt the transom assembly's new HP upgrade kits,gimbles etc,Steering replacing all the bushings,plastic stuff in the rams,repolish em,Drives rebuild"ouch!"Trying to get a Teague water pick up to fit,basically making the old boat back new.

babbling some
Rob

90mphRAGE pm me your #,its easier to talk than write


alittle sand and rust

some trash in the bearrings,rear main still had some coating on it.

The piston skirts have some scuffing,thieve been doing it.Pistons are 7 summers old,Prob needs new pistons or boring but the leak down is still good.Also look at the puke tank thread theres no oil in them,so not much blowby when running


On the intake I think the intake tray lip is making the intake gasket leek in to the lower crossover area/compartment,its not hurting anything except it leaks out making a mess on the bench,I glued it better this time and cut it to clear the pan lip,any other idea's ??

gimble upper pin was rusted,it looks like its not worn, it fits tight in the ring.just some corrosion.

Side pin was working on it

Good time to clean up the transom assembles, replace seals and bushings,upper pins,nuts and bolts,water hose,trim hoses,touch up corrosion spots.The steering arm is good and not used for steering

The HP kits come with ring,Helmet,side 4 bolt pins,ans Merc's rebuild kit, bellows,bearing etc


New spun coupler, I bought the A20's the rubber even looks different, ill take a pick

Girl friend was hot about the dish washer works good though.

Pin and gimble,is it sellible?

oil pumps,sanded the flat plate with some 1000 on flat surface

Who wants to buy a bag of


sand,dirt and rust, this is out of both block, most of it was in the back of the block,I cleaned it out real good before it went to the hot tank,The black flakes are the black on the head gasket,what ever his the cardboard.2 summers,never bumped the bottom.it had some around the drain hole about 3/8 thick

Intake ,I call it blow thru,overlap, RMBuilder says low port velocity,then he got into explaining and he lost methey do have a good bit more that the 500efi cam,there saying thats the reason I can run the boost? A custom cam would be more efficient and more power,that means more dynoing,mapping with new cam$$,I'm thinking Ive maxed out on the hull and drives anyway.The motors are reliable, the rest is not


On tear down I didn't find anything loose,Heads had a little black oil residue,I change oil ever 25 hours, maybe need to do it sooner, we do a lot of idling and the motor is fat/safe so its prob fuel dilution,ya can smell it a Little on oil changes.

The best thing is no leaks at all,it sealed up good, theres not even any residue on the rear seal and front oil pan lip,oil lines,fittings,water stuff,power sterring or motor puke tank. just the out drive bottles are one the small sideso I have to make a puke take for the drive, you can have a 1/2 inch in the bottom and run it hard it will push out into the puke tank,just part of a B Max,The plastic puke take cracked and leaked, Im trying to find something differant to puke in,Any sugestion would be good

puffer

the head gasket return could be trimed,block in the front too