fund razor

Run a fat ground wire to the cabin maybe?

Gary Anderson

Hmm, not sure. I wish merc thought this way.
But if you're aiming for the same quality as a bravo drive, it only has to last a year or 2 with a couple repairs on its mounting during that time.

Island Time

Fund,

That is a great idea putting tweeters in the dash. Since we have the same boat, where did you put the 6.5's. The sound in my cabin is fine but the cockpit is horrible.

fund razor

Hi Island Time. I wish I had a pic. Damn.

There is a small cover that is attached to the bottom of the molded side combing (starboard) that is all part of the seat. It covers the shift cables as they pass next to the driver.

It is shaped like a slanted triangle with one rounded side. (kind of) It is attached by screws that go up into the underside of that side combing. It is just a vanity cover.

I took it off and used it as a template for two... one for SB that was the mirror image of the other for port. But I made them a little rounder at the bottom, so that you could cut a 6.5 inch speaker into it. Maybe over the weekend I could go to storage and take a couple pics. Great winter project. I installed one in place of the existing cover, and I installed the other on the port side in the same place, where there was nothing. I installed the crossover network boxes to the back of my new panels, which I upholstered to match the rest of the cockpit.

The end product looks like factory work. And it was pretty easy.
It places the 6.5 inchers about where they would be in a car door installation.

But the tweeter thing is the bomb. I can hear them even with that low windshield and all the wind I get. I have never had to turn it up all the way. plus, the 6.5 inch two way speakers in the rear seat help fill in some. And my sub is under the back seat directly behind the Chris Craft logo in the middle.

In this (old) pic... you can make out a 12v socket just above the old GPS. That's where the SB tweeter went. On the Port, I ran the wire under the companionway door frame and used an existing frame screw to attach the surface mount assembly for the tweeter.

I used the Polk EX series. Everything has it's own amp channel. The amps went under the helm in the storage closet/fridge space. I used the panel under the helm to access the wire runs and just popped the leads out into the "closet." there are NO exposed wires in the installation other than a couple inches from each connection point on the amps.

I will take pics and measurements. It's a great design. I encourage you to rip it off.

Vyper340

None (with non-marine audio components and speakers). Buying marine versions are only required if you plan on soaking it with a hose or you don't take care of or protect your toy.

Sight and Sound

Not a true statement. Marine audio equipment play a much larger roll in the marine industry. These types of product, offer longevity in usage because they are made to withstand moisture as well as water. People, moisture is the real enemy when it comes to equipment damage. My company is authorized to do warranty repair for all Pioneer and Clarion marine and car audio products. We see more moisture issues then anything else. You can believe that you take extra special care by keeping your equipment dry, but the second you cover up the boat and lock it up, moisture begins to form all around. This is the problem that marinized equipment can combat against. What it boils down to is that marine audio equipment will give you more years of operation over standard car audio gear. It's a longevity contest, that's all it is.

fund razor

Marinized gives you epoxy coating on your circuit boards, different rubber in your driver surrounds, coated woofers, SS screws, epoxy coated solder joints.