Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

Shoot it outside?? For small parts and motors??[/QUOTE]

You need to treat Imron with a great deal of respect- it's very nasty- at a bare minimum, I would wear a hood and mask and the best activated carbon filter when shooting it outside. They make some new low-VOC versions but they're not nearly as tough- despite what DuPont will tell you. Also, if you're painting parts for protection and not necessarily appearance, find an industrial distributor or jobber. Their industrial line is substantially less expensive. It doesn't have the "depth" and attractiveness as their automotive line but it's affordable. It is the world's stickiest paint and tough to work with. There is an unbelievably fine line between getting it to flow and getting runs in it. You want good build and that takes several coats. If you're the impatient type, Imron isn't for you. It takes forever to dry so it will pick up more crap than you'd like. You can accellerate it but the accelerator only comes in quarts and it's like $200/qt. That would accellerate about 20 0r 30 gallons. You can sand it (about as easily as sanding a granite slab) but you can't buff it to shine. They make a great clear also.

Hang Time 27 - you have the XEX 27, right?

Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

Yes, I do..........

A Friend just finished painting his motor in Imron, outside. Came out beautiful. I was gonna shoot mine before the season since I have to take it out.

It was only the second thing he ever painted..... ever. The first was his 28 scarab last summer - the whole boat, in Algrip no less! Everyone said it would be so difficult, but he liked the idea of how it was even "tougher" than Imron, but he was worried that you couldn't "fix" it if you screwed it up because you can't wet sand it without ruining the shine. He only put one small run in it ( he knew where it was, but I couldn't find it....) That was done in a real paint booth with the "high dollar gun" as he called it, but I'm sure he didn't have anything besides a cheap mask in either case.

Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

You need to treat Imron with a great deal of respect- it's very nasty- at a bare minimum, I would wear a hood and mask and the best activated carbon filter when shooting it outside. They make some new low-VOC versions but they're not nearly as tough- despite what DuPont will tell you. Also, if you're painting parts for protection and not necessarily appearance, find an industrial distributor or jobber. Their industrial line is substantially less expensive. It doesn't have the "depth" and attractiveness as their automotive line but it's affordable. It is the world's stickiest paint and tough to work with. There is an unbelievably fine line between getting it to flow and getting runs in it. You want good build and that takes several coats. If you're the impatient type, Imron isn't for you. It takes forever to dry so it will pick up more crap than you'd like. You can accellerate it but the accelerator only comes in quarts and it's like $200/qt. That would accellerate about 20 0r 30 gallons. You can sand it (about as easily as sanding a granite slab) but you can't buff it to shine. They make a great clear also.

Hang Time 27 - you have the XEX 27, right?[/QUOTE]
Now that I re-read your post, sounds like you're describing what I now hear about "Algrip", that it is the touph as nails stuff, solids settle to the bottom for a deep shine, but you can't sand and buff etc. and that Imron - you can do whatever you want with it - buff out runs etc........??????

Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

is it just me, or is the "quote" optiion not working right?????

Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

Sort of but not really.

No Imron can't be wet sanded and then buffed. Industrial Imron is formulated strictly for a basic appearance whereas the automotive line has more "depth" to it. There are clears in both lines that can be overcoated a wetsanded Imron color coat. Imron can be finish buffed but it's a long, arduous process. Fountain's first boats weren't gel coated- he used Imron. I don't know when that changed.

Be careful of those "high-dollar guns" These days that usually means a HVLP gun which is a bad choice for anyone less than a master painter using Imron. Imron runs easily and HVLP lays on heavy. You can't beat an old-fashioned Binks in the right hands.

I asked about the XII as I just picked one up and am getting ready to redo it- looking for thoughts/suggestions/etc.

Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

I will see which holds up better this summer. Top half of the drivve powder coated and the bottom Imron because of the nose cone.

Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

Sorry- had a typo- wrote "can" meant "can't"

Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

Nice colors!! Not a fair test though, it looks like you're in fresh water area??? If so, you guys have it too easy!!:D

Here on the Chesapeake Bay, all you have to do is turn the stereo down, and you can HEAR stuff corroding!!

Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

Thanks
I did do my trailer in Imron also I will see how it holds up.

Re: stripping powdercoat?
 

One other thing about applying powdercoat- there's no reason not to use some sort of surface prep on materials such as aluminum. I did a set of outdrives and had them zinc chromated prior to powder coat. This eliminated any possibility of "creep" when the PC gets a chip. This will also work under any paint. The only thing you can't undercoat PC with is anything that will melt or even soften at 350 defrees.