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Old 12-25-2004, 08:28 PM
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Default Re: Alternators

So, if the Delco does not charge until 1200 rpms (like what mine is doing) would installing a smaller pully like CDOG suggested help or should I do something different?
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Old 12-26-2004, 07:21 AM
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Default Re: Alternators

Originally Posted by PPlay33
aljolyn, you probably have a marinized Delco marinized alternator. It has screens in it to act as a flame arrestor and a specil self-exciting regulator that does not charge until it exceeds about 1200rpm. IT will stay charging until tou stop the engine. This regulator allows the alternator to operate with just a single wire and not have a battery drain.

Yes ,there is only one wire. So I take it it's working OK.
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Old 12-26-2004, 12:11 PM
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Default Re: Alternators

Marine alternators are not sealed. They are open inside to allow the fan to circulate air through them. Otherwise they would overheat and die in short order. The only difference from a automotive unit is that thay are U.L. approved. They will not cause ignition of fuel vapors under laboratory conditions. Some units such as older delco use screens because a spark will not go through a screen. Others such as Mando and Prestolite will seal the brush holder assy from the atmosphere because this is the most likely place for a spark to originate. Then others such as after market high output units don,t even do this. They custom fit the brushes and precision turn and balance the rotor eliminating brush bounce wich in turn stopping any arcing

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Old 12-26-2004, 01:11 PM
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Default Re: Alternators

I have found it is not unusual for a Delco one-wire (self-exciting) alternator to need a slight rev-up to start things up. Once the regulator is kicked-in, you can go back to idle and still be charging.
I would be careful with smaller pulleys as you may be spinning the alternator too fast for the bearings at running speeds.
A fully charged, healthy battery should read about 12.8 volts. Start the engine and watch the on-dash volt meter. If after a small rev-up it reads 13 or more, chances are the charging system is fine.
Remember: with an alternator it takes voltage to make voltage, so make sure the connections are clean and secure. If you can turn the alternator with your finger (engine OFF, of course!), the belt is too loose.
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Old 12-26-2004, 02:00 PM
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Default Re: Alternators

I understand the screen keeping sparks in, but what keeps fumes out?
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Old 12-26-2004, 02:21 PM
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Default Re: Alternators

Originally Posted by aljolyn
I understand the screen keeping sparks in, but what keeps fumes out?
I suppose the cooling fan that's either inside or behind the pulley on the outside.
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Old 12-26-2004, 07:23 PM
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Default Re: Alternators

I have a Volvo Penta and am unsure who makes the alt. but it does not charge until it reaches about 1500 rpm for the first time to "energize " it. Then it works perfectly from a voltage regulation standpoint even at like 600 rpm. Only issue is the electric fuel pump gets it 12 volts from the charge circuit (and starter start circuit). So if you start the boat and never rev it ....eventually it will run out of fuel. Is there something wrong with the alt"?
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Old 12-27-2004, 08:28 AM
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Default Re: Alternators

Originally Posted by mneal
I have a Volvo Penta and am unsure who makes the alt. but it does not charge until it reaches about 1500 rpm for the first time to "energize " it. Then it works perfectly from a voltage regulation standpoint even at like 600 rpm. Only issue is the electric fuel pump gets it 12 volts from the charge circuit (and starter start circuit). So if you start the boat and never rev it ....eventually it will run out of fuel. Is there something wrong with the alt"?
No, just remember to get the regulator involved once you have oil pressure.
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