Rik-Is the SpeedMaster rake the same as a standard 15* Arneson?

Yep, we use the exact same propeller on the Arneson that the Merc drives use. I have the same propeller shaft as the Mercury SpeedMaster, so Merc or Hering or any standard off the shelf propellers fit.

Thanks for all the info. You added a lot to this thread. If you ever needed a boat to advertise what the Arneson drives would do, it would be Black Cloud. That boat is a legend! Thanks again.

porpoising


Rik I really appreciate your info and time

The only props I've tried are the bravo one 28,30,32.In the summer full load it doesn't like the 32's,I ran the 32's cool light load once with turning props out it ran the same 102 as the 30's did at that time,but it was worse on chine walking I guess I need to try turning in the 32's IN?

Brett B Blades recommended labing the 30's but I'm running around 5900-6000rpm,prop slip around 17ish,If we labed the 30's it would gain to much rpm,revlimiter is 6200.above 5900 its only gaining around 8-10hp per 100rpm.We also thought the 5bl Maxumus would give it to much stearn lift,Iv been looking for a used set of 28's 5bl to try.

Chip F said the CG is around the back of the front bolster ,Playing with it on the lift finding CG I'm thinking its a foot to 1 1/2 forward,it has the extra opts and more up front.

Clay A tried everything.... ended up putting rockers on their race boat it made it handle better but lost around 4mph,I think that was around 2000? This was around 91 dropped to 88.I bet from the dash foward its allot lighter than mine.I"m betting 1000 diff in the hole boat.

I have the 380 tabs,and narrowed them at the tip for the drive, there about 4inchs wide.yes its settles the boat but on top end it slows it down.I really don't want to move them up at 100,they go up at different speeds,so one side is going to drag before its out of the water,I set the drives and don't touch them during the run,Its just faster no tab and at 2 1/2 on the drive and porpoising,I know if it would not porpoise it would be faster,but with the set up now thats it..Turning the props IN helped alittle on the tendency to chine walk,if I creep up to the 90's it easy for it to chine walk,So I started accelerating up to 80's then WFO.To me it shoots thru to 101 then ya really got to drive it,Most of the time with turning in If I creep up to a 100 its starts trying to chine walk early,So Iv been stabbing it in the upper 80's to drive thru it.

With the tabs just touching the water,When the hull is porpoising going up, isn't the tab going to grab harder and make the nose come down harder?

Props turning in.
With it porpoising it now carrys the nose higher and longer, but as its going up the stearn moves to the right and I counter steer to the right ,still carrying the nose, it jumps up in speed while its carrying the nose,like 2-3mph above 100.If it just would carry the nose longer ,maybe more power or props,I think it would increase pretty easy,But I would really have to learn how to balance it there being prob not much hull in the water.

I asked Joe what about rolling the edges on the chine, center rear if that would help any,he said nope.

Rambling here,I'm open for suggestions?

Thanks
Rob


Pick.ya can see the tabs, and the bolster headrest

Strake

Before and after on the foot/skeg.Ive been trying to thin and smooth,straighten the foot....Any suggestions?

On the Arnesons we had roughly 4-6% slippage. Dragging the tabs a bit will make the boat more stable, the more stability the faster you are willing to go with the power you have.

As you stated its best to power up and through the problem areas until you get past it.

I'd try some 5 blades just to see what happens as a bit more stern lift might ease your porpoise. It is just a propeller swap to see what happens.

We spin in with the Arnesons also.

Thanks,Ill keep looking for some 5's

http://vimeo.com/2221044

http://vimeo.com/2221036

LOL

Cool videos.

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iwyi2OILpT4[/YOUTUBE]