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Old 09-01-2014 | 10:49 AM
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That is one beautiful paint job!! Can't believe it was rolled on!!
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Old 09-01-2014 | 12:44 PM
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----Mario,,,You could also give Jimmy Reid (Reids Automotive) a call. Hes in Whitman Mass and built every motor I did while living 10 years on Cape Cod. All my drag race motors, all my resto motors etc. He has even done several Ferrari motors. I know he has built many marine motors as well. Never a problem. If I was closer to him Id still be using him although I have to say, Crockett builds a hell of a motor. Jimmy was the primary reason for "Red Alerts" success. His # is 781-857-2500. Tell him I sent you........Bill S
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Old 09-01-2014 | 10:26 PM
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Hi Mario,
Rob formerly of 3D now Tulley. If you have any machine work to do I would recommend Precision Balance and Machine in Hudson, NH (Randall). Once you complete disassembly maybe you will have a better idea of what exactly is causing the crankcase pressure to build

Project is very cool, first time seeing it!
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Old 09-02-2014 | 06:59 PM
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Glad we spoke today, question which side of the block s are the dip sticks on? My 383 was running an older 010 block, dip stick on the port side. Even with good venting the stick would walk up, I had to kink the stick to keep them in.

Phil
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Old 09-07-2014 | 03:48 PM
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Yuck, cleaning 12 qts of oil out of the boat after removing both engines, oil slime EVERYWHERE, even an oil film on the inside of the windshield . .

I must say that the easiest surface I've ever had to clean is the Sherwin WIlliams 2 part epoxy I applied to the bilge and and einge compartment. Purple soap, a quick brush over and rinse with the pressure washer . .

Now I just need to decide which engine builder . . . many great recommendations, estimated prices all over the map . . . .

Mario
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Old 09-14-2014 | 02:15 PM
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As my boat is now completely apart again, I figured this was a good time to lower the cockpit floor . . . my boat was built with two cockpit floor hatches that were done w/o flanges, all wood construction and fiberglass. Crude and not very pretty!
I'd like to have something like what is on Ian's boat.... http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/m...-update-4.html

Any ideas as to who might make something like this?
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Old 09-14-2014 | 05:36 PM
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Mario,

Could you be more specific pleased. Are you looking to lay down a teak deck or re do the hatch design either or both of which I will tell you what we did if it would help.

Kalaazar
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Old 09-14-2014 | 06:34 PM
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I'm looking to redo the hatch inserts... no teak planned yet.... your boat has aluminum edging? I suspect this is a flange that is screwed along the edge to the floor?
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Old 09-15-2014 | 01:40 AM
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Correct, the edging is 3mm stainless steel strip screwed around side of both the hatch and the opening.
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Old 10-23-2014 | 07:55 PM
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Engine update!
A visit to the Dyno and engine builder today.....
We replaced the pistons, knocked pack the compression ratio 1/2 point to allow me to run 89 Octane vs just 93.
Changed the rods from 5.7" to 6" to reduce side thrust on the piston skirts. And bored the Dart blocks to achieve 383 cu in.. Recall my engines were 377 before.

The cause of my huge blow by.... The Dart blocks require special honing and this wasn't followed before..... I now have Weisco pistons, plasma rings.

I lost only 9 HP, but that is at 6K rpm. My plan is never to run 6K. Torque peak is at 4300-4800 at 464 ft lbs. Hp in that range is 430. Max hp is 456 down from 465. Not running 93 Octane is a win for me, at 30+ cents savings per gallon......

I will be looking for a set of Weber Holley power plates for these carbs to turn them into a progressive carb, this should save some fuel when cruising at 2-3K rpm.

In the interim the cockpit floor is being cut out..... And lowered ..... Rear seat will be made easily removable by chopping it up and permanently mounting the sections under the deck with flanges for the seat section. I'll bolt this in place for easy removal.
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