Relaunched after 14 years!
01-27-2015 | 09:35 PM
#61
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From: Bedford & Wolfeboro, NH
02-10-2015 | 07:18 PM
#63
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From: NewBaltimore Mi
02-10-2015 | 07:41 PM
#64
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From: Bedford & Wolfeboro, NH
02-10-2015 | 09:52 PM
#65
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From: Jackson, n.j. ~ Brooklyn, n.y.
Mario,
Did you ever pickup the set of SS bolster frames from Great Lakes Skipper?............I just made a deal on these http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLSTERS-SCA...700a5d&vxp=mtr
Did you ever pickup the set of SS bolster frames from Great Lakes Skipper?............I just made a deal on these http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLSTERS-SCA...700a5d&vxp=mtr
02-11-2015 | 05:02 AM
#66
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From: At Work
It will this last weekend of Goose season, but I took my fair share of them this year. (around 180) Lol Last year in my hunting groups we were over 300 geese. Albert in the spring chasing black bears with bow. It will be a few weeks till back to normal arm usage. Sucks getting older.
02-11-2015 | 08:04 PM
#67
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From: Bedford & Wolfeboro, NH
Mario,
Did you ever pickup the set of SS bolster frames from Great Lakes Skipper?............I just made a deal on these http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLSTERS-SCA...700a5d&vxp=mtr
Did you ever pickup the set of SS bolster frames from Great Lakes Skipper?............I just made a deal on these http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLSTERS-SCA...700a5d&vxp=mtr
I ultimately decided to build them entirely myself. My cockpit floor does not allow for through bolting at the outside edges as it is now too close to the hull. I will be fabbing drop down seat bolsters the attach to the coating and have a single leg toward the center.
02-11-2015 | 09:55 PM
#68
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From: Jackson, n.j. ~ Brooklyn, n.y.
j
I ultimately decided to build them entirely myself. My cockpit floor does not allow for through bolting at the outside edges as it is now too close to the hull. I will be fabbing drop down seat bolsters the attach to the coating and have a single leg toward the center.
I ultimately decided to build them entirely myself. My cockpit floor does not allow for through bolting at the outside edges as it is now too close to the hull. I will be fabbing drop down seat bolsters the attach to the coating and have a single leg toward the center.
I have exactly what you need now for your project (2 Billet legs & foot pads) I bought these last month. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Billet-Alumi...2f4c1f&vxp=mtr let me know if you can use them.
06-05-2016 | 09:02 PM
#69
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From: Bedford & Wolfeboro, NH
It's been way too long since I've updated the work progress on Time Flies, so long that I had to read the thread to see where I left off.
During the past year I've spent at least 1/2 of every weekend on this project! Yikes!!! What we do for a few hours of fun in a summer...
When I last left off, I had the cockpit floor lowered 5 1/2", and then discovered that the previous fiberglass shop had covered my boat with over spray from a generic Awlgrip. Everything was covered, the gauges, deck, and all the chrome along with drives, external steering, K-planes and drives. Fortunately I own an automotive restoration shop and we moved the boat in the shop and set about polishing everything, as nothing would wash or dissolve the over spray. The deck was stripped of all hardware, the chrome was sent out for re-plating, and I discarded the old rub rail. .
This became the perfect excuse to strip the deck and return the relief back into the foredeck. We sanded the deck down to bare gelcoat and applied 2 coats of an epoxy primer which was then blocked out. The relief area on the fore deck had been filled with bondo, which we ground out. The original edge was easily found and I then fit a new 1/4" thick ribbon Sapele plywood. I sourced this from:
http://www.worldpanel.com/#!product/...-2440-x-1220mm
This piece was sealed on the bottom with epoxy and then stained with Mahogany colored stain before top coating with 3 coats of a 2 part varnish. I bonded this to the deck with 3M 1500. This was "clamped" with blocks and ratchet straps from the trailer over the deck and left for 3 weeks to cure. I can now wet sand the top surface smooth and apply conventional varnish for the gloss.
While all was a part I also chose to replace the fuel tanks, although I had no leaks, the foam was wet from water and it was the only thing not previously addressed. After removing the foam around the edges, they came out easily.
By drilling a 1" hole thru the bulkhead in front of the tanks, and inserting a prybar under the tanks they popped up. Good thing I did, as each tank has corrosion pitting and would have failed soon. Another $1000 and two new tanks. With this I was able to covert over to electronic fuel gages.
Recall that all this work started with the lowering of the cockpit floor. Of note, this brings up other issues. Fuel lines needed to be re-routed as the tops of the tanks are now above the height of new floor. I chose to install a PVS tube under fiberglass along the chine and run new fuel lines through these.
By lowering the floor this also closes off the outboard limber holes which drain the area that the forward deck air scoops ventilate. For anyone doing this, seal off your deck scoops as you don't want to soak your cabin with either rain water or a wave, should you stuff a wave.. I chose to vent the air from these scoops into the cockpit, a little ore fresh air on hot days will keep the wife happy!
For the cockpit floor Ian Toll's Magnum 27 "Sidewinder" was the inspiration. For this I sourced premade sheets of teak from World Panel Products. http://www.worldpanel.com/#!st-decking/cxzg
The crew here was very helpful and made for me two sheets to create the width needed for the cockpit. This was cut to fit the shape of the cockpit and bonded to the fiberglass with a 2 part epoxy from Teck Decking Systems. I left a gap in the middle that was then filled with a black rubber type caulk and sanded smooth to match.
For seating I picked up a pair of bolster seats that mount on the cockpit sides and bolt to the cockpit floor. Once I determined the mounting location I anchored the forward inboard legs with Garelick toggles. http://www.garelick.com/Toggler-Bran...e-Bolt-Anchors Possibly I should have bonded aluminum plates to the bottom of the cockpit floor before hand?
The rear engine hatch cover on this boat was flat, never fit correctly. I wanted one that was crowned to match to contour of the seat back and rear deck edge. Placing the hatch upside down I made 6 slices thru 7/8 of the thickness, leaving only the outside skin. I filled the joints with West Epoxy resin and glassed the seams with tri-directional glass. This worked perfectly and was tested by my walking on the hatch when it's installed on the boat. We'll see how this holds up when the hatch gets used as a sun pad.
I'll post some pics in the next few days. It's been a long road and I hope to launch her this coming weekend!
During the past year I've spent at least 1/2 of every weekend on this project! Yikes!!! What we do for a few hours of fun in a summer...
When I last left off, I had the cockpit floor lowered 5 1/2", and then discovered that the previous fiberglass shop had covered my boat with over spray from a generic Awlgrip. Everything was covered, the gauges, deck, and all the chrome along with drives, external steering, K-planes and drives. Fortunately I own an automotive restoration shop and we moved the boat in the shop and set about polishing everything, as nothing would wash or dissolve the over spray. The deck was stripped of all hardware, the chrome was sent out for re-plating, and I discarded the old rub rail. .
This became the perfect excuse to strip the deck and return the relief back into the foredeck. We sanded the deck down to bare gelcoat and applied 2 coats of an epoxy primer which was then blocked out. The relief area on the fore deck had been filled with bondo, which we ground out. The original edge was easily found and I then fit a new 1/4" thick ribbon Sapele plywood. I sourced this from:
http://www.worldpanel.com/#!product/...-2440-x-1220mm
This piece was sealed on the bottom with epoxy and then stained with Mahogany colored stain before top coating with 3 coats of a 2 part varnish. I bonded this to the deck with 3M 1500. This was "clamped" with blocks and ratchet straps from the trailer over the deck and left for 3 weeks to cure. I can now wet sand the top surface smooth and apply conventional varnish for the gloss.
While all was a part I also chose to replace the fuel tanks, although I had no leaks, the foam was wet from water and it was the only thing not previously addressed. After removing the foam around the edges, they came out easily.
By drilling a 1" hole thru the bulkhead in front of the tanks, and inserting a prybar under the tanks they popped up. Good thing I did, as each tank has corrosion pitting and would have failed soon. Another $1000 and two new tanks. With this I was able to covert over to electronic fuel gages.
Recall that all this work started with the lowering of the cockpit floor. Of note, this brings up other issues. Fuel lines needed to be re-routed as the tops of the tanks are now above the height of new floor. I chose to install a PVS tube under fiberglass along the chine and run new fuel lines through these.
By lowering the floor this also closes off the outboard limber holes which drain the area that the forward deck air scoops ventilate. For anyone doing this, seal off your deck scoops as you don't want to soak your cabin with either rain water or a wave, should you stuff a wave.. I chose to vent the air from these scoops into the cockpit, a little ore fresh air on hot days will keep the wife happy!
For the cockpit floor Ian Toll's Magnum 27 "Sidewinder" was the inspiration. For this I sourced premade sheets of teak from World Panel Products. http://www.worldpanel.com/#!st-decking/cxzg
The crew here was very helpful and made for me two sheets to create the width needed for the cockpit. This was cut to fit the shape of the cockpit and bonded to the fiberglass with a 2 part epoxy from Teck Decking Systems. I left a gap in the middle that was then filled with a black rubber type caulk and sanded smooth to match.
For seating I picked up a pair of bolster seats that mount on the cockpit sides and bolt to the cockpit floor. Once I determined the mounting location I anchored the forward inboard legs with Garelick toggles. http://www.garelick.com/Toggler-Bran...e-Bolt-Anchors Possibly I should have bonded aluminum plates to the bottom of the cockpit floor before hand?
The rear engine hatch cover on this boat was flat, never fit correctly. I wanted one that was crowned to match to contour of the seat back and rear deck edge. Placing the hatch upside down I made 6 slices thru 7/8 of the thickness, leaving only the outside skin. I filled the joints with West Epoxy resin and glassed the seams with tri-directional glass. This worked perfectly and was tested by my walking on the hatch when it's installed on the boat. We'll see how this holds up when the hatch gets used as a sun pad.
I'll post some pics in the next few days. It's been a long road and I hope to launch her this coming weekend!
06-20-2016 | 09:36 AM
#70
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From: Bedford & Wolfeboro, NH
[ATTACH=CONFIG]556582[/ATTACH]
Finally, after way to many weekends and nights spent working Time Flies made it back to the water!
The new engines run incredible, start and idle and can go into gear almost immediately. Only two issues during shakedown day, no reverse on the starboard engine, although it shifted perfectly here on dry land when running the engines on the garden hose . . . puzzling. Power steering fluid leak at a hose connection on the helm. This one annoys me, as the connection is a push on only connection, and we installed pinched ear clamps as security. It only leaks when the steering is on full lock . .so that was avoided!
No real hard speed runs, that will wait until all is functioning correctly, but at 3400 RPM it moves along at 60 MPH on GPS, drives down and tabs up.
One picture for now, I'll load a few more tonight.
Finally, after way to many weekends and nights spent working Time Flies made it back to the water!
The new engines run incredible, start and idle and can go into gear almost immediately. Only two issues during shakedown day, no reverse on the starboard engine, although it shifted perfectly here on dry land when running the engines on the garden hose . . . puzzling. Power steering fluid leak at a hose connection on the helm. This one annoys me, as the connection is a push on only connection, and we installed pinched ear clamps as security. It only leaks when the steering is on full lock . .so that was avoided!
No real hard speed runs, that will wait until all is functioning correctly, but at 3400 RPM it moves along at 60 MPH on GPS, drives down and tabs up.
One picture for now, I'll load a few more tonight.
