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Mario a few questions............What do you mean special honing for Dart blocks?.......wasn't the factory honing precise enough to build a proper engine?
How many inches are U lowering the floor by? ........4" (give or take) seems to be the max before you start to eliminate less flooring space. 4" seems to be right at the chime any lower and your rapidly losing floor space...........................Also, tell me more about rear seat removal, I can't picture flanges for seat sections under the deck??......................We need pictures!!!.......I do anyway!.....................Glade you got to the engine oil solved. |
Dart blocks are not shipped ready for assembly, and require a procedure with different stones and oil to get the proper surface for rings to seat and not wear. The cast iron in these is much tougher and harder from my understanding than a "normal" Chevy block. I will scan and post the sheet that came with my blocks when I get the notebook back with the engines. As they say, the devil is in the details!
My floor will be from inside the chines, a vertical line straight below the inner edge of the deck. The top surface of the new floor will be approx. 5 1/5" lower. I'll be at the boat shop today with camera and will post pics as soon as I get a chance. |
Mario,
Which cam are you using? What is your compression? Jeff |
The second engine was dynoed yesterday, a twin to the first.
With the AFR heads we ran ignition timing as much as 38 degrees advanced, we knocked this back to 36 w/o any measurable loss of power or torque. Stringers . . I am able to lower the entire floor 5 1/2". We've replaced the outboard stringer with a new stringer running forward from the outboard engine stringer all the way forward to the cabin bulkhead. This happens to fall right under the inboard edge of the deck and will form the lower outside wall of my cockpit storage. My boat did not have this previously. We will also add another stringer half way between there and the center. The cockpit floor will be 3/4" marine plywood, fiberglassed on both sides and bonded to the stringers. We will run the rule lines through PVC tubing outboard of the outside stringer. Jeff, I will post a complete engine description next week, pistons, cam and all the critical stuff. Mario |
Mario .........shoot some pics of the re-worked stringers (placement) before you cover-up............I've done exactly what your doing. Just trying to picture how the re-designed rear bench seat looks and adapts to the new cockpit sole.
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With the snow storm keeping me from driving to work I thought I'd take some time for an update . . .
The hull was at the fiberglass shop until January 7th, when I pulled the boat from the shop. Not pleased with the lack of attention and total lack of progress . . 26 hours of work since October and it was supposed to be done in 2 weeks! I made arrangements to bring it to http://www.whitemountainfiberglass.com/. Sadly we had to start over, rip out all that was done, as the previous shop much to my suspicion used AC exterior plywood in spite of my requests to use marine plywood. On top of all of that he painted a lobsterboat in his shop w/o covering my boat! So everything has a coat of overspray . . my newly painted drives, K-Planes, external power steering, lexan windshield, new gauges, and all my chrome . . which was recently replated . . I don't care about the deck as it was scheduled to be redone . . . but everything else . . . The sad part is that the guy that f**ked me has recently done good work on other boats, customers I sent him. I'm not finished with him! Hopefully I'll pick up my boat as soon as the roads are dry here in NH . . it will be done there this coming Saturday, but we are forecast for more snow... I'll now need to decide on cockpit floor covering . . looking for suggestions here . . . I also need an accurate template for the wood insert on the deck . . as this surface will be returned back to what it should be. the previous owner filled this relief . . Mario |
Mario my original insert is off right now. If you want me to trace it and send a template to you let me know.
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Originally Posted by Mario L.
(Post 4256910)
With the snow storm keeping me from driving to work I thought I'd take some time for an update . . .
The hull was at the fiberglass shop until January 7th, when I pulled the boat from the shop. Not pleased with the lack of attention and total lack of progress . . 26 hours of work since October and it was supposed to be done in 2 weeks! I made arrangements to bring it to http://www.whitemountainfiberglass.com/. Sadly we had to start over, rip out all that was done, as the previous shop much to my suspicion used AC exterior plywood in spite of my requests to use marine plywood. On top of all of that he painted a lobsterboat in his shop w/o covering my boat! So everything has a coat of overspray . . my newly painted drives, K-Planes, external power steering, lexan windshield, new gauges, and all my chrome . . which was recently replated . . I don't care about the deck as it was scheduled to be redone . . . but everything else . . . The sad part is that the guy that f**ked me has recently done good work on other boats, customers I sent him. I'm not finished with him! Hopefully I'll pick up my boat as soon as the roads are dry here in NH . . it will be done there this coming Saturday, but we are forecast for more snow... I'll now need to decide on cockpit floor covering . . looking for suggestions here . . . I also need an accurate template for the wood insert on the deck . . as this surface will be returned back to what it should be. the previous owner filled this relief . . Mario I'm in the process of installing this one in my '77' pantera: http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...psygcnuz7s.jpg |
Originally Posted by Drake22.250
(Post 4256976)
Mario my original insert is off right now. If you want me to trace it and send a template to you let me know.
Mario Langsten Vintage Sports & Restoration, LLC 3 Robinson Rd. Bow, NH 03304 Thank you!!! |
Will have it in mail before weekend.
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