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I left the drain holes in the stringers but I'm going to route the vent hoses over the stringer. I didn't like the 4" hole in the 6" stringer. It looked like a weak point to me.
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The stringers are ready to glass in, I ran out of 1708, Glassdave is shipping some more to me, so while I'm waiting on that I laminated 3 layers of 2" wide 1/2" Okoume to make some diagonal supports for the hull under the engines, I also sut some 3/4" Copper tube to epoxy in all the drain holes in the stringers. I don't want water to get a chance to get into my stringers anywhere, so the holes are covered with resin, a layer of CSM, anothe coat of resin, then I'm using 5200 to bond in the copper, and sealing it in with some core bond. Here is what I came up with for the diagonals, man that was a lot of angles to cut!
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...psbada5f01.jpg http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps53f73f04.jpg I'll core bond them in after I glass and tab in the stringers. |
That is better than how it came from the factory.when bob re- did the starfire that shipped to italy he made a # of structuals changes.
When we do the next one we would like to add a few more. Bud |
I just finished beefing the bottom of my bilge at Dave's shop. He had me fo it a bit differnt than your angle pieces.
He had me put in mini stringers length wise about 2.5 inches tall. I corebonded them down and put 3 layers of 1708 on them overlapping the layers. so in essene I not only put the mini stringers in I also added 3 layers of glass to the bottom. Some tips, put 1 layer of glass down and let it kick, wait a couple hours and put the next layer down. I did one side all 3 layers at once and it just gets out of control trying to balance it, Also cut your length of glass a little long, then cut about a foot or so off each end. Use the short pieces at the ends of the stringers tabbing them to the transom/bulkhead then lay the longer piece in so it overlaps the short pieces. On the long piece, start wetting it out on the top crown of the stringer than work down one side at a time. It layed down much straighter for me that way. |
Also get a good fan blowing into the bilge, the fiumes lay in the bottom as your working and it gets bad..........
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Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 4194060)
I just finished beefing the bottom of my bilge at Dave's shop. He had me fo it a bit differnt than your angle pieces.
He had me put in mini stringers length wise about 2.5 inches tall. I corebonded them down and put 3 layers of 1708 on them overlapping the layers. so in essene I not only put the mini stringers in I also added 3 layers of glass to the bottom. Some tips, put 1 layer of glass down and let it kick, wait a couple hours and put the next layer down. I did one side all 3 layers at once and it just gets out of control trying to balance it, Also cut your length of glass a little long, then cut about a foot or so off each end. Use the short pieces at the ends of the stringers tabbing them to the transom/bulkhead then lay the longer piece in so it overlaps the short pieces. On the long piece, start wetting it out on the top crown of the stringer than work down one side at a time. It layed down much straighter for me that way. Did you use any tabbing? Or just the 3 layers of 1708? Did you cover the entire floor with 1708? Or just around the stringers?
Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 4194062)
Also get a good fan blowing into the bilge, the fiumes lay in the bottom as your working and it gets bad..........
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Originally Posted by mr vinyl
(Post 4194046)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]530039[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]530040[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]530040[/ATTACH]
Bud, your attachments don't work for me. |
I cut the 1708 to make tabbing flaps in the 12" pieces.
This piks sucks but it shows my layering... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...gle/layers.jpg |
Finally someone with the same drawing skills as me! Honestly thanks for the pic it helps alot
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Murfman nice work!!! Keep us posted as you go.
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