I`ve struggled with dip sticks and leaking thru out the years.

I`m going to try something diffferent this time around.

Modified Moroso locking dip sticks.
I`m hoping for no more leaks.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7fd046ca28.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9c46c79169.jpg

Leaking at the block or out the tube on top? That sounds like you have too much pressure building up in the crankcase, maybe?

There`s always crankcase pressure on a blown engine.
The crank whips oil in the tube and the pressure takes it out the top.

There`s always crankcase pressure on a blown engine.
The crank whips oil in the tube and the pressure takes it out the top.[/QUOTE]

From that you have internal crankcase pressure. All engines have it and more so with turbos or blower engines. To ways to fix that and not put a bandaid on it are better, or more breathers. Better yet a vaccum pump or dry sump system would solve the pressure issue for good. I got (4) breathers on my BBCs with Whipples and a 6 stage dry sump system on the LS with a Whipple.

Vacuum pump and dry sump would definitely do the trick but at a cost and added complexity.Would be hard to incorporate now.
I had -6An lines going to a catch can and the breather only had a 1/2" opening .
Upgraded to -12AN and 1" opening


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f965796ecc.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...eefb81f83c.jpg

That is a good upgrade. I would suggest (2) 12 an lines to the catch can. One from each valve cover. Then a 1 inch opening or larger to mount a bigger filter on. It is not that much to do a Moroso Vaccum pump and a longer belt to your system to drive it. Think they still make them. It will acually add HP too. This was done to my SS Hemi car and saw 30-35 HP gain.

Look at the picture above your post

Look at the picture above your post[/QUOTE]

I did so whats your Point? Instead of Help someone you Criticize, maybe an ego issue, Bro...

Looks like (1) 12 an, the other hose looks smaller. The tank exit still looks like it is small and stepped up at breather, a restriction. Going back a few post and "reading" there is positive crankcase pressure causing the problem. I'm pointing out the fix not critical of a photo.

Easy buddy.

The picture shows two -12AN one from each valve cover and a -20AN breather, which is 1' I believe .
The description is:
Upgraded to -12AN and 1" opening

I`m open to ideas but vacuum pumps on blown marine engines don`t make sense.

What a vacuum pump actually does

A crankcase vacuum pump:

• Pulls vacuum in the crankcase
  
• Improves ring seal
  
• Reduces windage losses
  
• Can add small horsepower gains in NA or race-only engines
  

This works best when the engine naturally builds crankcase pressure that you can evacuate consistently.

Why it doesn’t play well with a blower (especially marine)

1. Blowers already complicate crankcase pressure

A supercharged engine:

• Has higher cylinder pressure
  
• Pushes more blow-by past the rings
  
• Often uses looser ring gaps for heat
  

A vacuum pump has to work much harder just to keep up — and often can’t maintain stable vacuum under boost.

2. Marine engines live at steady load

Unlike cars:

• Boats run long periods at high RPM and high load
  
• Oil temps stay elevated
  
• Moisture management matters more
  

Vacuum pumps:

• Pull oil mist aggressively
  
• Can dry out seals
  
• Increase oil aeration issues over long runs
  

This is a durability problem in marine use.
A vacuum pump system adds:

• More fittings
  
• More hoses
  
• More failure point

4. Minimal gain vs real risk

On a blown engine, realistic gains are:

• 0–5 hp at best
  
• Often no measurable gain
  

Versus:

• Added complexity
  
• More maintenance
  
• Higher chance of oiling issues
  

In a boat, that tradeoff almost never makes sense.

When it might make sense (rare cases)

A vacuum pump can make sense only if:

• It’s a race-only marine engine
  
• Short run times (drag boat, shootout boat)
  
• Dry sump system
  
• Tight control over oil scavenging
  
• Professional-level setup and maintenance
  

Even then, many builders skip it.

Better alternatives for blown marine engines

If the goal is reliability and performance:

✅ Proper crankcase ventilation

• Boost-referenced breathers
  
• Large-diameter vents
  
• Proper oil separation
  

✅ Quality ring package

• Blower-specific rings
  
• Correct end gaps
  

✅ Oil control

• Good windage tray
  
• Proper oil level
  
• Marine-rated separators
  

✅ Dry sump (if extreme)

• Far better solution than a vacuum pump
  
• Proven in high-output marine builds
  

Bottom line

For 99% of blown marine engines:
A vacuum pump adds risk with almost no reward.