yea I thought about that after I posted it. Your right though no spark no run. Do you think all these problems could be the ignition box. I'm confused now cause when you kill the power to the box it should kill the power period. Man between losing that stinking muffler and these other problems I might just sell the boat. I'm just kidding!!!! Love the boat and when I have all the bugs straightened out will love it even more. Just frustrated.

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very understandable.
can u get your hands on another ignition box, to swap out and test?

Hey Mike sorry to hear about that. Check with SemperFi here on oso he had a real good deal on a set of Gibsons a while back in the swap shop , I just looked & they are no longer listed but he may very well still have them. As for the still running after you shut off the ignition : Have you guys ever put a timing light on it ? I am sure that Cobra set it where it needed to be but that doesnt meen that it couldn't have moved. Just a thought because if it is to high with lower octane fuel it can keep running or (dieseling) when you shut it off. ( which I don't know if that is what you are talking about or not ? )

Mike if I were you I would not run the motor anymore untill you get the gremlins out with your carb issue. I would hate to see your motor melt, Randy needs to hook you up. I know he is down here but when it comes to issues like that a solution to your problem has to made. I know Randy, he has a great warranty reputation.....

Mike have you read the plugs and check the timing? Rick's comments are the same thing that crossed my mind, but then again I pay someone to work on my boat!

Also, not to detract from the point of this thread, but what kind of race car? I do still work on my own race car at least, well most of the time!

Beutiful boat mike. I feel warm and fuzzy all over just looking at it.

It could be somthing as small as the idel being set to high. alot of times it the idel is set higher than what the motor likes, when the key is turned off after running at resonably high RPM's. She will still try to keep running. She'll spit and sputter and finaly decide to shut off when the fuel is gone. That is if I am understanding this right. If it is, back the idel of about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. That should do it. Again, if I understood everyting right.

Thanks for the replies, atleast I know you all help when you can. As far as the timing I haven't check but I will tonight. I was assuming that when talking with Randy and he had me change some of the advance settings on the ignition box that eveything was ok.

Now for the plugs they look great not black not grey no specs of anything. They did look just right.

And thanks for the link to the mufflers. that was truely a damn shame when that fell off!!!

Well Randy sent me another carb and although it was a 1940's tank dominator (I mean this thing is old) it worked much better. I can idle at 700 or 800 all day long. It was all he had there and he overnighter it to me so I had something for the weekend. The only thing that is weird is my top end speed is way down. About 10mph to be exact. I wasn't trying for like top end runs just got it up there for a few seconds and I could just tell that it wasn't there. He's going to redo the one I was using so that's good, but the only other problem I'm having now is when taking the boat out of gear the rpm's will shoot up to like 1200 and then slowly come back down. What could be causing this symptom. I doesn't exactly idle perfect when it's out of gear,but when it's in gear it runs awesome. At least I'm narrowing my problems down some. It should be good soon. I also have a dominator that I had Barry grant do a couple of years back from my race car. It's a little more cfm but always ran more mph than any other carb me or my friends had and everyone always tried to buy it from me, but now I'm glad I never sold it. So I might try that one too. I'll just put all the jets from the one over to the other and try it.

Mike

How do you all set up your exhaust for a EGT gauge. I use them in my cars and on my bike but I don't have water jacketed headers on them. On my car I have bungs and on my bike I just drilled and tapped the hole. So how do you all do this? This is the one thing I've always used to tune the motor correctly especially when spraying them or just for tuning. I know that there is a little bit of the primary tube exposed before the water jacket starts but isn't that too close to the head for an accurate reading?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Mike