Power trim lines
#11
Gold Member

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 904
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From: Ft.Lauderdale, Fl.
The 33's deck was placed on the hull & adjusted to an installed height that was ideal for the rubrail extrusion. This was gauged by a simple handmade wood "C" shaped template we cut out on a bandsaw, that was slid along the hull/deck joint, while screwing #10 X 1 1/4" self-tapping panhead screws along the way. This was a one man job performed by our carpenter, with the assistance of only a strong wood stick that spanned from the floor to the bottom edge of the deck, to raise or lower it incrementally before screwing into a predrilled 11/32" hole. The inside hull/deck joint was bonded with two layers of 1708 Biax material, that I bought in precut rolls, bonded with Co-Rez prepromoted # VE8121 VinylEster resin, catylized at 5%. This same two-layer process was applied to the overhead transverse bulkheads, dash bulkhead areas, etc. No grinding or sanding is required prior to bonding, due to the excellent secondary bonding characteristics of the Vinylester resin, which was previously used in the complete lamination schedule of both the hull and deck. If the hull to deck screws were too long, they were broken off inside, prior to bonding, with a pair of vise-grips. This entire method of joining the hulls to the decks was common to all sizes of PP's. Hope this helps answer your question.
Last edited by Ed; 08-28-2008 at 07:26 AM.




