Prop Blade Breakages
06-07-2012, 10:57 AM
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Prop Blade Breakages
Need some advice please. I have a 28 Daytona with twin 710 Vipers imco SC drives with 3 inch shorties with a 1.34 ratio. I can not keep blades on the starboard prop and once in awhile a port prop . I have tried props from most of the mfgs on this forum and they all have been great guys to deal with.
I need to run a 36 to get mph which is 136 to 140 depending on the prop mfg but I get up to speed once or twice and it throws a blade since it has become a surface drive with the short X. Once it took the lower with it and another time it took the 11/4 out shaft with it which i have the 17/16 shafts now and that time it pulled to the port side hard and did 3 360s at 130 mph on the starboard nose which was awesome for the other boaters to watch and we didn't lose any passengers. I cant keep a lab prop to last at all which makes sense due to it being thinner a stock 34 B1 will last a weekend and i haven't broken the stock 32 B1 that i have on now but slows me down to 122. I have tried 35 five blade hydro motive but took along time to get up on plane and forever to get to speed of 136 and the slip was great at 11% but made the back end loose at speed. I might send my five blades back for some 33s. Any advice other than lowering the drives.
I need to run a 36 to get mph which is 136 to 140 depending on the prop mfg but I get up to speed once or twice and it throws a blade since it has become a surface drive with the short X. Once it took the lower with it and another time it took the 11/4 out shaft with it which i have the 17/16 shafts now and that time it pulled to the port side hard and did 3 360s at 130 mph on the starboard nose which was awesome for the other boaters to watch and we didn't lose any passengers. I cant keep a lab prop to last at all which makes sense due to it being thinner a stock 34 B1 will last a weekend and i haven't broken the stock 32 B1 that i have on now but slows me down to 122. I have tried 35 five blade hydro motive but took along time to get up on plane and forever to get to speed of 136 and the slip was great at 11% but made the back end loose at speed. I might send my five blades back for some 33s. Any advice other than lowering the drives.
Last edited by hydfixer; 06-07-2012 at 12:30 PM. Reason: spelling
06-07-2012, 06:07 PM
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Probably not what you would want to hear, but might want to consider upgrading drives so you can run speedmaster style props.
I dont think that any of the custom prop manufacturers can cast a thicker bravo style prop. Doesnt hurt to ask though.
Another thought would be to lower your drives a little, maybe keep some more prop in the water.
I dont think that any of the custom prop manufacturers can cast a thicker bravo style prop. Doesnt hurt to ask though.
Another thought would be to lower your drives a little, maybe keep some more prop in the water.
06-07-2012, 10:37 PM
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Probably not what you would want to hear, but might want to consider upgrading drives so you can run speedmaster style props.
I dont think that any of the custom prop manufacturers can cast a thicker bravo style prop. Doesnt hurt to ask though.
Another thought would be to lower your drives a little, maybe keep some more prop in the water.
I dont think that any of the custom prop manufacturers can cast a thicker bravo style prop. Doesnt hurt to ask though.
Another thought would be to lower your drives a little, maybe keep some more prop in the water.
06-07-2012, 10:45 PM
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Need some advice please. I have a 28 Daytona with twin 710 Vipers imco SC drives with 3 inch shorties with a 1.34 ratio. I can not keep blades on the starboard prop and once in awhile a port prop . I have tried props from most of the mfgs on this forum and they all have been great guys to deal with.
I need to run a 36 to get mph which is 136 to 140 depending on the prop mfg but I get up to speed once or twice and it throws a blade since it has become a surface drive with the short X. Once it took the lower with it and another time it took the 11/4 out shaft with it which i have the 17/16 shafts now and that time it pulled to the port side hard and did 3 360s at 130 mph on the starboard nose which was awesome for the other boaters to watch and we didn't lose any passengers. I cant keep a lab prop to last at all which makes sense due to it being thinner a stock 34 B1 will last a weekend and i haven't broken the stock 32 B1 that i have on now but slows me down to 122. I have tried 35 five blade hydro motive but took along time to get up on plane and forever to get to speed of 136 and the slip was great at 11% but made the back end loose at speed. I might send my five blades back for some 33s. Any advice other than lowering the drives.
I need to run a 36 to get mph which is 136 to 140 depending on the prop mfg but I get up to speed once or twice and it throws a blade since it has become a surface drive with the short X. Once it took the lower with it and another time it took the 11/4 out shaft with it which i have the 17/16 shafts now and that time it pulled to the port side hard and did 3 360s at 130 mph on the starboard nose which was awesome for the other boaters to watch and we didn't lose any passengers. I cant keep a lab prop to last at all which makes sense due to it being thinner a stock 34 B1 will last a weekend and i haven't broken the stock 32 B1 that i have on now but slows me down to 122. I have tried 35 five blade hydro motive but took along time to get up on plane and forever to get to speed of 136 and the slip was great at 11% but made the back end loose at speed. I might send my five blades back for some 33s. Any advice other than lowering the drives.
Have you tried Cutting Edge Propellers yet? They cast their own from scratch so they are quite a bit stronger than a modified bravo or maximus. They also have the capability to make a bravo style prop with an effective pitch of 39 with a clever style blade shape....
06-08-2012, 11:35 AM
#6
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Lowering the drive is a best bet option.
Thickening the root if done by Hering is a good option if the blades are letting go at the root. If they are throughing less than the entire blade, the Hering mod will not help.
If the blades are leaving at the root, you certainly do not want a propeller made by some one who welds on blades (be sure they actually are one piece casting. Some guys claim to have 1 piece castings but we know they are not.)
Labbing does not have to mean thinning the blades. Trueing or blueprinting the blades is the best option. If the P5X's are staying together, have them blueprinted and adjusted to get on plane better. We can do this if you desire.
With your application, forgings would be best, not castings.
Brett
Thickening the root if done by Hering is a good option if the blades are letting go at the root. If they are throughing less than the entire blade, the Hering mod will not help.
If the blades are leaving at the root, you certainly do not want a propeller made by some one who welds on blades (be sure they actually are one piece casting. Some guys claim to have 1 piece castings but we know they are not.)
Labbing does not have to mean thinning the blades. Trueing or blueprinting the blades is the best option. If the P5X's are staying together, have them blueprinted and adjusted to get on plane better. We can do this if you desire.
With your application, forgings would be best, not castings.
Brett
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Brett Anderson / BBLADES Professional Propellers
920-295-4435 http://www.bblades.com/
[email protected]
Brett Anderson / BBLADES Professional Propellers
920-295-4435 http://www.bblades.com/
[email protected]
06-08-2012, 08:09 PM
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Lowering the drive is a best bet option.
Thickening the root if done by Hering is a good option if the blades are letting go at the root. If they are throughing less than the entire blade, the Hering mod will not help.
If the blades are leaving at the root, you certainly do not want a propeller made by some one who welds on blades (be sure they actually are one piece casting. Some guys claim to have 1 piece castings but we know they are not.)
Labbing does not have to mean thinning the blades. Trueing or blueprinting the blades is the best option. If the P5X's are staying together, have them blueprinted and adjusted to get on plane better. We can do this if you desire.
With your application, forgings would be best, not castings.
Brett
Thickening the root if done by Hering is a good option if the blades are letting go at the root. If they are throughing less than the entire blade, the Hering mod will not help.
If the blades are leaving at the root, you certainly do not want a propeller made by some one who welds on blades (be sure they actually are one piece casting. Some guys claim to have 1 piece castings but we know they are not.)
Labbing does not have to mean thinning the blades. Trueing or blueprinting the blades is the best option. If the P5X's are staying together, have them blueprinted and adjusted to get on plane better. We can do this if you desire.
With your application, forgings would be best, not castings.
Brett
I will call you next week about the p5s. You might remember me I am the guy from Arizona who kept calling last summer and I can't rember if I bought 5 or 6 blades from you they all were high quality I just wish they were unbreakable.
Last edited by hydfixer; 06-08-2012 at 08:22 PM. Reason: Add more
06-11-2012, 10:14 AM
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This prop number 13 that I broke on Sat. This is the same spot every time this is a stock 34 B1 RH on the port drive. This has less than 10 min of use and broke at about 125 mph or so.
Last edited by hydfixer; 06-11-2012 at 10:14 AM. Reason: pic
06-11-2012, 06:31 PM
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I think 33 hydromotives would be a good option as they are made to surface.
Anyone make adapters to adapt a speedmaster prop to that imco shaft? Not sure how it would run with a small hub prop but the outboard guys run small hub props all the time. Cut down speedmasters would most likely hold up.
Anyone make adapters to adapt a speedmaster prop to that imco shaft? Not sure how it would run with a small hub prop but the outboard guys run small hub props all the time. Cut down speedmasters would most likely hold up.
06-13-2012, 07:28 AM
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If they break that quickly, stress is a HUGE problem.
I think forged is the way to go or you'll have to drop the drives. Even after dropping the drives, I think you'll continue to have problems with breakage.... just be able to run them longer before they let go.
Tim Bostic,
Hoss Marine Props
