Because it is cut in half, I will cut it one cylinder pieces anyway, it's 4 feet long so in half it's easier to transport. Seller cut it before delivery, head was broken anyway.
One cylinder piece have to cut small slices so I can see how its made and how thin port walls are. Other cylinder slices go to port flow research.

150mm bore is 6” for us Yanks!

Yikes!

Congrats for sticking with a huge project!

Universal Joint
 

Hey Guys, we are desperately looking for a universal joint for a ASD11 metric drive. Job has been stuck for two weeks and twin disc doesn’t have. Part number. Any idea? Used it fine. Help!! Thanks so much

Do you know universal joint dimensions, bearing cup dia and overall lenght? You can find Spicer joint dimensions from internet, some truck or bus can use same joint that could be much cheaper too.

Our driveline guy looked into spicer, and they have the dimensions and they couldn’t find the correct the spline dimensions is what the problem is.

No way they designed in a non-standard u-joint

I have no accurate information, but have fixed many drive shafts that have no spare part U joint for sale, just put what can be find and fit. ASD could have special joint for bigger steering and trim angles.
Axelgasser, are you looking for something else than just U join because you are talking splines? I think just cross pin and bearing cups.

He's got another thread and I thought the same thing.

Long time no updates, but now we have move to new house and Fountain will go forward faster. Drives are assembled, clearances adjusted and all go together fine, no design flaws.
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I have to made tools also, so drives can be assembled. Ball socket get X ring sealing to keep water out from boat, it's lubricated by grease that goes first to ball joint. It doesn't need any rubber bellow. grease tube and drive oil tubes come in engine room so oil level can be check and ball joint lubrication is possible when boat is on water.

Engine is also near first start. Valve clearances (48piece), cam timings and injection pump timing is done, valve covers and injectors are assembled. Injection lines are made of 8mm diameter pipe with 3mm hole inside, they should work fine with 13mm pump plungers. I have been worried about injetros sealing to cylinder head because aluminium sleeves that make bottom seal, they have leak risk. I spray Permatex copper head gasket spray to help sealing, maybe help, maybe not. Injector return lines are also ready, they joint together inside valve covers, one 6mm line comes out for each valve cover and go to fuel return line. Originally Transmash have no return lines, its not good for injection start and end, it make smoke and dripping injectors.

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New intake manifold gaskets are homemade, water cut 2mm aluminium o-ring keepers and 2.5mm o-rings that are glued with elastic glue. New seals help disassembly and re assembly so I don't have to clean surfaces every time and get new seals.
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Injector lines was difficult to bend so they look nice, I make the decision to make them just fit and keep timing and fuel delivery adjusting easy to handle. They not look pretty but all are same length and will work fine, that is all in all.

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Pump timing is now 20 degree BTDC, its good point to start testing. Timing is adjusted with pressurised air in fuel feed port, when plunger goes up, it shut feed port so I can hear when air whoosh end, it's exactly point when injection start.

Lubrication system and cooling system need little work and then it is ready for start! Stay tuned.

Interesting lobe profile on the cam shaft