Thanks for your support, it motivates when other boat builders say that you are going right way.
But today start the camshaft science! I have build measure devices and valve clearance tool to find out what is going on in Transmash massive valve covers.

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Valve clearance adjustment is very clever, valve stem have thread inside and spline outside end of valve. Cam follower is screwed to valve tip and valve spring retainer fit spline outside of stem, retainer have fine face spline towards cam follower and locks follower on place. adjustment are easy, just push retainer down and rotate follower to right clearance.

I measured intake cam one degree step vs lift, russians in 1961 when this engine is build was ahead of its time. Cam profile itself is quite good, but I think clearance recommendation is wrong. Original valve lash is 2.3mm, I think 1.9-2.1 would be better. 2.3mm lash hit straight to lift ramp, it would be better take valve "in control" before lift ramp. Turbo diesel need also early exhaust cam timing, but it's hard to slide surfaces open valves when there is pressure in cylinder. I think 0.5mm lift at long duration make exhaust valve opening easier, pressure can leak to port in small lift period and then cam can slam valve open to scavenge the cylinder. Transmash have over 3 liters of displacement in every cylinder so heat and exhaust gas have to get out of cylinder as efficient as possible. This is only engine I know that cam lift and duration can be screw adjusted... In intake side 0.5mm extra lift does not maybe nothing, but less clearance make more lift. I don't know port flow but extra lift is hardly bad thing.
I have to measure exhaust cam also, duration is same so it will be probably same camshaft, but better to study that too.
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Very cool

Fantastic, i'm not an engine guy at all and the way your presenting this it's clear to me that your experience is leading you to think your way thru every component internally, externally and how it needs to be improved to work with all the boost, temperatures and pressures from the turbos.

think it's been 5-6 months, did you ever get results from the carbon fiber driveshafts and how about some pictures and physical dimemsions of the outdrives.

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My friend company will laminate carbon shafts, they have calculate layout and materials already but I need to get mold ready first. Still looking straight heavy wall 4" aluminium tube for mold. Lower picture show what they should look.

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Back to camshafts, Russians have made very clever cam gear system. There is 10 spline on camshaft and I think 36 spline in sprocket, 360* divided 36 is 10*. Spline hub can be set 10 different position so 10* is divided 10, its one cam degree step! I'm not sure this yet but it seems to be so. Hubs are secured by M22x1.5 bolts that was very tight, selfmade special tool is needed. Intake cam have left thread and exhaust is right, bolts are secured by round spring cotter. They have put circlip inside hub so fastening bolt works as puller also, it pulls hub out and press it back. I hope every engine should be as well made as Transmash. This engine is made in 1961, no 3D modeling, no CNC, just mahorkka cigarettes, Stolichnay Vodka and manual machines.

In next episode we set timing quite much off from stock cam timing.....

Impressive workmanship!

does the engine have to get installed so you can determine the length of driveshafts and make the molds for them to use ?
You'll have to machine that tube for the straightness you need, i think i know how they'll be made, nasa level stuff.

I’ve been wondering if I would make plywood copy of engine compartment. Then engine can be installed in copy, drives, cylinders, tail pipes, engine mounts, driveshafts and all other parts are easy to locate in right places. When everything works on hall floor, I will copy boat engine room same as plywood copy.

driveshaft mold can be little longer than required and yes it should be very straight and accurate. It’s so long that removal of the finished part from the mold would be difficult. Just little conicity will help that.

Factory made carbon shafts are made 45/45 orientation, carbon string is coiled over mold by machine. We try make these heavy weight unidirectional carbon cloth, 45/45 schedule and top layer will be sleeve cloth. Actually carbon shafts are not so complicated to manufacture, no NASA stuff.

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Fountain project is in standby mode, no time to work on now. But some new parts have arrived, four Porsche 934 race Crmo CV joints, billet boot flanges and boots. They looks very good products, 128mm diameter, 1 inch balls, crmo star and cage, ramps have grind to looser fit so they won't produce so much heat and lightening grooves helps that too. 6600Nm static strenght and good movement to every direction. I hope these joints survive power of Transmash.
CV joint savers must be done in to billet boot flanges. Its soft and elastic rubber sheet that keeps grease in joint so it can't spread in boot. Joint will explode immediately after grease is gone. Kendall have good CV grase that withstand 170*C continuous temp. Drive shaft alignment must be as straight as possible when drives are straight and full speed trim angle so joints have minimum angle. Does anyone tried radiator paint that improve heat transfer? If it works really, joints could be painted with it.
I found carbon driveshaft mold tube and my friend have long lathe so tube can be polished there. Carbon test mule tube may be ready in few months.

Happy New Year boat tuner friends!!