I will do some porting soon. Valves are 54mm intake, 50mm exhaust, regular 2 valve truck or V8 size, but valve stems are 18mm, Tammer diesel can not grind valves, I have to do it myself in lathe. Valve job to seats are no problem

Call to Herlevi family might be worth to try also.

They are tractor pulling people, for them, the main thing is to produce as much smoke as possible. They know a lot of diesel engines but I need to concentrate eficiency and reability, make as much power per liter of fuel as possible, not feed as much fuel than engine can swallow as possible.

I started to grind heads, it's not so big job than I imagine, another head is ready and other half ready. Make no sense to use much time to port work, just do easy things. Valve stem area will make maybe 60-80% of port restriction, making air get past stem is not easy modification (50psi boost WILL help...). I can't get port wider, water passages are near, port walls are maybe 5mm thick. I just smooth up everything I can. Valve guide area is now way better, smoother and port is now 2mm wider at stem area, maybe it helps. Injector nozzle cooling channel come in intake port also, that can't grind down also or head have loles like cheese.

Milwaukee electric grinder is very good, it's stable with rotating file, light, quiet and doesn't get cold like pneumatic ones.

German pulling team made CNC program for Transmash heads, but they have no cooling water inside at all because it run on methanol.

https://schluckspecht-pulling.de/


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All I can say is WOW, you guys a skilled craftsman to the extreme. Looked thru your Denmark thread and it will take me some time to go thru it. Really a more in depth look at what has been happening then this thread and worth the look

Back to boat building after long lasting engine build.
I have never liked stock boats electric work, wires hanging everywhere, bad connections, hidden connectors and fuses, poor quality, voltage drop, blackouts, nothing work....

Here is master example from near million dollar Fountain, somekind fuse board behind instrument cluster, one drop salt water and done. By the way, I take all electrics out(exept cabin electrics for now), straight to the recycling can....

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f25552b683.jpg


I try do better job, all connections will be in IP65 boxes, only screw tighten connectors or good quality Deutch connectors. All wires secured by fuses that are calculated so device failure doesn't make blackout, only one system stop working. Main fuses are Midi and smaller ones GM type.
Wire cross area is calculated so voltage drop is in check but wires are thin as possible because weight saving. 16mm2 (about 5AWG) wire is big enough for suply currents when lenght is taken into account. 24V system half the current so half cross area needed in relation to 12V system.


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Cables between front, rear and engine junction boxes are 18X1mm2 PUR isolated, flexible fine robot cable that have numbered wires. Cross connections are made inside boxes.

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Main switch is remote controlled flip-flop switch that draw current only when change state, control switch will be near driver place. Normal main switches near batteries are used only in winter storage time or fault situation. Two 24V 120Ah LiFePo batteries can be used parallel or singly. Third battery is 20Ah 12V AGM battery for trim pumps, too much money to buy 24V pumps, 12V ones come in boat deal. DC/DC converter make 13.8V from 24V that charge trim pump battery and feed cabin power, two 10A shore power charger and engine 100A 24V alternator charge Lifepo batteries. Homemade brushless generator that make 200A and 29V will be later update. Boat have to be self sufficient so I can be long periods on trip.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6f77ef547f.jpg

All supply wire connectors are pressed with good press tool, then covered by schrink sock. I put spray vaseline to every connection to avoid oxidation.

Most of people make better looking bling bling things, but I'm pretty sure this electric system will be reliable. Junction boxes are not best looking ones but paint not work with ABS plastic, maybe I wrap them to black someday.

Wiring diagram have to document also, when adding new equipment or trying fix problems is way easier when you have some charts.

As always you are doing a beautiful job, love pulling this thread up to see your progress!

not sure where this is but it looks like the tabbing has let go....?
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Skagerak across race in many years have left some memories to boat. It is just toilet module tabbing, not a big deal. I have plan to take all cabin out some day and rebuild it way diferent looking. Then toilet module is taken off anyway. Fountain use same module in 47 and smaller boats, I wan’t more headroom, there are 15-20cm free space above toilet.

Love your wiring job.

I just finished rewiring my 25’ twin OB and I can’t believe how much wire I added!

Like you I tried to size everything based on load Vs cable run.

All terminals crimped w/waterproof fittings where possible and heat shrink where not.

One of the most difficult problems to diagnose under way is electrical.

Better to spend your time/$ now than then.

I like your idea of the junction boxes.

Your top picture of the small bus bar w/standard crimp connectors, are sure that was OEM?

Beautiful work as always!

I think it is original but not sure. USA made circuit board and and pretty sure that boat have come in Europe new because 230V electrics.