Full Hydraulic Steering Conversion
 

Guys,

I have begun the steering conversion on the PQ. This is gonna take me a hot minute, as I am working it in when I have time here at the shop and I’m taking my time, doing it right.

So far:

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I’ve got the drive bracket installed.

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I already had to deal with the grounding washer that the Mayfair kit doesn’t take into account with the drive bracket mounting bosses. I machined 1/16” off the pertinent boss, to account for the thickness of this washer, and the bracket lines up perfectly.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...34116e891.jpeg
And the transom bracket bolt holes are marked. Pretty sure I’m going to have to cut away some of the floor panel that is attached to the top of the stringer on the side of the engine well, because, as best I can measure, that appears to be right where the thru-transom bolt holes are going to break through, and I’ll need some space for the washer plate on the inside. We’ll find out soon enough.

Any advice for a layman on drilling these holes without chipping the gelcoat? Specific type of drill bit? Learned techniques?

My intention is to seal the newly exposed raw wood with WestSystems epoxy before installing the bracket with a proper sealant. Speaking of which….

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Mayfair’s instructions say to use 3M 5200, but that makes me a bit nervous. That sh!t seems to be forever (not that I think this bracket is ever coming back off). It’s been suggested I use BoatLife Life Seal, which appears to be about the same as 4200, only clear and more expensive. Suggestions here?

Feel free to chime in with advice, critiques, whatever.

Thanks. Brad.

Start drilling with the drill in reverse, to avoid chipping. Lifeseal comes in other colors, white and black are available too.

I can't help with the tech but I can say you will be worth the effort. Years ago I had a 1998 Velocity 280 that did not have hydraulic steering. After owning it for years I had full hydraulic steering installed. WOW...what a difference.

Padraig

Padraig,

That’s what I keep hearing. The CFO isn’t convinced, but I think she will be.

Thanks. Brad.

Also, I suspect that the reason the Mayfair bracket does not take into account the grounding washer, is that the bracket is bare aluminum and thus will be grounded to the outdrive when assembled, without the need for the grounding washer.

I used the 4200 type sealer when I installed the rams and hose thru hulls on my boat. Funny you mention the part about the location of holes, as when I put my rams on, when went in between my drives, my inner plate I believe was hitting my center stringer which is huge and high up on the formula. I too had to modify my backing plate. In fact one of my 4 bolts ended up being changed to a lag vs a bolt as it went right into where the stringer was.

Good luck. It is quite amazing the difference, handles like it’s on rails.

DrFeelgood,

I believe the bracket is stainless; certainly feels considerably heavier than aluminum.

Apparently, the stud isn’t a reliable conductor into the helmet. If it were, Merc wouldn’t have incorporated the grounding washer. With that said, the bracket isn’t going to change that.

Machining an equivalent of the washer from the mounting boss of the bracket allowed me to keep the washer as Merc intended, and didn’t affect the fit and alignment of the bracket segments.

Thanks. Brad.

Makes sense. And yeah, I questioned my fingers as they typed out Aluminum, because that didn't seem right, so Stainless is more reasonable for sure. Thanks.

Guys,

Interesting discovery, getting back in the shop this morning….

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I had to remove the drive shower, as it’s in conflict with the rear plate of the drive steering bracket. And, I guess the lack of tension on the bolts lead to this:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...eb94d2c8c.jpeg
Oops…. :poopoo:

I guess my drive oil reservoir lines are flowing freely enough. :rolleyes: I obviously snugged the bolts down and wiped up the mess.

On a better front….

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I used a 7/16” speed bore to spot face through the gelcoat without chipping.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...dab337c68.jpeg
Worked great. Next, I’ll use a drill guide to drill through nice and square with a 13/32” drill bit.

Thanks. Brad.

Thanks.

Dual ram or single???

Padraig

Padraig,

Single.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9fc782938.jpeg

Unfortunately, my HP level doesn’t warrant the second ram.

And I didn’t have to cut the floor panel that sits on the stringer and butts up against the transom. Or, rather, I should say, ALMOST butts up against the transom. It’s interesting. It actually butts up against the transom, conveniently, except where the inner washer plate needs to be. There’s a notch in the floor panel. It’s almost as if PQ anticipated a future hydraulic upgrade.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

I’m gonna have to get a new drive shower, as the one we have is in conflict with with rear drive steering bracket.

I’m looking at this one.

Suggestions?

Thanks. Brad.

^^^^ That is the one to get. I did a Mayfair conversion on a friends boat this past Spring, and we had to switch the drive showers out to those to clear the Mayfair bracket.

Guys,

Anybody make or ever made a truly water cooled top cap? Anybody have a usable Bravo top cap lying around to get measurements from? I could easily make one out of 2024 (stronger and better thermal conductor than 6061 or cast aluminum) that would have an integrated water channel, instead of just splashing it on top of the powder coating (which is a horrible conductor).

Thanks. Brad.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5aeb6cf1c8.jpg
I got the eddie marine caps and cut a relief around the steering mount and it worked out great.

Sunset,

Have any pics from the other side?

Thanks. Brad.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...feb1d1312a.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d3cfd2394b.jpg
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Sorry for the teaser, that was the only picture I had last night till I downloaded these today.

I used two of those on my boat, they are nice pieces.

I’m curious if that drive cooler, being tapped into the water line on the bravo would hurt the water flow to the impeller and starve the engine cooling in any way. I see the boat in the photo has dedicated water pickups.

Thanks,
Chris

You would need a dedicated water pickup for the engines, thru-hull or transom mounted.

You only want to tap into the outdrive water jacket if you have separate thru hull water pick ups for the engine

Thanks guys! Makes sense.

Yes and it also lets water to go thru the drive

Teague sells a bad ass dual water pick up that incorporates the drain plug if anyone had to add pick ups. Bob's proud of them though. :D

Has she ever driven the boat?
She'd notice the difference.

Rookie,

Shes driven the boat many times. Just not with hydraulic steering…. Yet. Unfortunately, she’s not so much of a visionary, and has her doubts as to the difference it will make. I have faith she’ll notice the difference.

Thanks. Brad.

Drake,

Got a link? I just browsed the website and didn’t see anything that looks like what you’ve described.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

A little progress….

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...53dab43dd.jpeg
Drill jig to ensure positive placement of holes, square to the dash.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...92a3489a8.jpeg
Holes drilled for helm. I’ll have to make a bezel to cover the holes from the old helm.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...553c8410c.jpeg
Transom bulkhead holes drilled.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...24d0d4b74.jpeg
I had to relocate my MerCathode.


Now to just epoxy all the newly found raw wood and prep for finish assembly.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

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Man…. That was a LOT of work for nothing but a test fit and photo op. That orbital valve is farqing HEAVY. :faint2:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a7fb8da1d.jpeg
My MOMO won’t fit securely anymore. Not really sure why. My guess is the bore in the steering column is different than the old helm. Gonna have to modify the washer ring to allow it to sink in a bit further. Or just make a new one, have it powder coated the same illusion purple as the rest of the trim, along with the other pcs I’m gonna have done, and call it custom. :cool:

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

A little more progress.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f6b9d9a01.jpeg
Test fit for bezel to cover old helm mounting holes.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6c74911dc.jpeg
The final stackup, give or take. Kinda aggravating. If I’d measured the thickness of the dash, and accounted for it, I could have made the bezel thicker and covered the gap. Since I’m going have the supplied “bezel” and the one I made powder coated, this will leave a thin silver ring that will look like it doesn’t belong. 🫤 I could make another one. I just don’t feel like it. Ask me again tomorrow….

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...81cd6914d.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c749bcd57.jpeg
Steering wheel center cap. It will be powder coated, with a PQ logo laser engraved on it.

Also got three of the four hydraulic hoses fished through the hull this afternoon. Somehow, I ran out of hose with the last section too short to run the distance. Prolly over allowing for length. I’d rather have to cut it off again than have to re-fish another length through. So now I get to buy another length of hose. Off to the ParkerStore I go. Hopefully they have some equivalent hose on hand. I’m sure I can get some from Hardin if not.

Thanks. Brad.

What are you planning for a pump, engine driven or electric?

Jetskidrewski,

OEM Merc 496 pump, which is engine driven.

Thanks. Brad.

Damn wish I knew, I was going to do a dual helm but never did. I have steering pump and helm unit I could have sold ya.

Dan,

I appreciate the offer, but the OEM pump provides plenty of pressure and volume, and, honestly, it probably would have been more work than it’s worth, trying to sort out the serpentine belt in the absence of the PS pump, not to mention the ProCharger install bits that somewhat rearrange OEM configuration.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9b9801581.jpeg

Transom hardware final installed. Sealed with 4200.

Baby steps. :cool:

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

Been a while since I had any progress on this front, but I FINALLY got my bits back from powder coat…

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9e863d84f.jpeg
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Finally got the helm mounted. The steering wheel is only secured well enough for the photo op, and will be removed, along with the column, until I get the hoses pulled to length. But I can now finalize the hose connections to the transom bulkhead fittings at least. The high pressure feed and low pressure return will have to wait to be cut to final length until the engine is back in, and I’ll want to detach the hoses from the orbital valve after they are cut to blow them out.

I have too many plates spinning…. :faint2:

I also had this powder coated, then dropped it off with the vinyl shop for some lettering….

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...86a020714.jpeg


Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

More baby steps….

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...861722efb.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8e25de12d.jpeg

I made a standoff to shore up the hydraulic lines going to the bulkhead fittings. Nice and secure now. Yes. I mis-located it before, not realizing how wide the hose tie-downs would stack up, and they collided with the exhaust tip. There are a couple of ghost holes I will have to fill in with 4200. Dang it. All in due time.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bf53b8259.jpeg
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I had to make a couple of new brackets for mounting the power steering reservoir and catch can. All the aluminum parts will come off and go out for black anodize, hopefully with a customer’s job, so they can pay for it.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b2060ceb9.jpeg
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The hydraulic kit’s power steering reservoir forced me to rethink this. The ProCharger kit uses the front lift ring as a mounting point for the intercooler. This entire conglomerate of stuff is all mounted to this, for the most part; intercooler, reservoir and catch can. I had to wait until I had the engine in the boat to install the intercooler this last spring after the engine rebuild. This way allows me to not have to do that. I had to bend the link a bit so the shackle would not hit the intercooler. After the engine goes back in, I can just remove the link, install the kit-supplied step washer and cinch the intercooler in place.

Pretty much just waiting for some decent weather at this point, so I can pull the boat out of the shop, rig everything up to run the engine on the stand, next to the boat, all wired and plumbed in to the various systems on the boat, to check for any leaks (the whole reason the engine came out in the first place). I’ll have to link the power steering incoming and outgoing lines, and then finalize them to the helm after engine installation.

Thanks. Brad.

Are those hydraulic steering line fittings crimped on or hand assembled?

Ryan,

Hand assembled, as supplied with the kit from Hardin. I got a length of hose, ten fitting assemblies and a link to a YT video on how to do it.

Thanks. Brad.

Interesting. Its been a while, but when I converted my Jeep to full hydraulic steering it was not recommended to use hand assembled fittings and I actually saw at least 1 hand assembled line blow first hand.