jeff32

Moving along well! Keep it up!

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

that's good news about the deck being cored with divinycell.
you are moving fast and it looks real good.
what are you going to core that deck section with ?
are you going to tab the hull and deck together ?

hblair

Thanks guys. The front of the deck (forward of the fairing) is all divinycell and has no damage except for the center where the bow rail bolts to the deck, there is a wood strip there and it is at least partially rotten, it will be a challenge to repair, because it is underneath (above when deck is right side up) the divinycell sheets. I will have to cut open the divinycell to access the valley below where the rot is located, then reglass the divinycell when done.

This is an area where I guarantee all scarab flat decks are going to be rotten, unless they have been kept inside their whole lives. If you can pick up your bow rail at the attaching points the wood is rotten, unless of course they didn’t install a nut at the factory, which one of mine was actually missing lol.

hblair

Oh yeah, as far as tabbing the deck and hull together prolly not. I’ll prolly put it back together like the factory, but have been thinking about a different rub rail.

hblair

Oh yeah part II, sorry yes we’ll be coring it with wood, in the photos of the deck above you can see where we cored it back with the 6”x6” plywood pieces. It was 1/2” thick from the factory, I had 5/8” laying around and we decided to do it with that. There’s a good bit left to do as about everything rear of the fairing is rotten.

Rookie

iTrader: (4)

After beating on my Panther for years in Lake Michigan, the hull/deck bolts started snapping. I removed the rub rail to replace the broken bolts. Before tightening the bolts down I filled (caulked) between the two with West Systems Six10 epoxy. This really stiffened up the boat and improved the ride in rough water and the sidewall flexing was eliminated.

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

hardest part about that raised center section will be crawling up there to do it, deck should be supported well.

what i would do is measure it length width height on the top of the deck, make notes of the measurements in relation to 1 hole
from each connection point, and transfer it to the inside.

snap 2 lines front to back for width (minus 1/8 -3/16 on each side for glass thickness)
set the depth on the circular saw and go for it, multiple cuts next to each other and the wood chips right out.

if the center section has a change in height (on the outside), tape it off on the inside and write STOP on it
once you have a section cut and cleaned out change the saw depth and cut the next section.

wrap up the clean out with tool of choice, but the for initial cut, the circular saw is fast and easy.

hblair

It’s been a real busy week. Haven’t done much to the boat. Today Brian got back there and cut a lot of the core out of the rear area of the deck. There’s a lot of upset Canadian ants eh. I bought another Sawzall, $79.00 at Lowe’s. A boat idiots best friend...

1990LarsonSenza250

Amazing job you guys. Its inspiring and makes me want to find another project!! cheers.

hblair

Got some more done this afternoon. About 90% of all this is rotten. Water came thru the gunnel upholstery, engine hatch hinges, and cleat holes in the deck. Of course no traces of caulking found around those fixtures. Will be nice when this is back together knowing all the rot will be gone...