Adjusted valves
#1
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Thread Starter
Adjusted valves
I just got done adjusting the valves on my boat. Not something I would want to do on a regular basis. To make it easier this time I took the whole turbo off at the riser to manifold joint. Last time I did it I took the turbo off the riser ( to get the turbo off I had to take the exhaust pipe and turbo heat shield off to get to the bolts that hold the turbo to the riser). This time all I had to doo was take off the bolts that hold the riser to the manifold. I also had to take the intercooler off so I could the the outboard turbo off since the outlet is about 1/8 in from the intercooler inlet. Now both motors are good to go. Now all I have to do is change the oil in both motors this week.
#4
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Re: Adjusted valves
Damn!
I have had to replace 5 rocker studs on 5 seperate occasions this year and readjusted all rockers for added security, but now I feel fortunate.
Nice setup though!
I have had to replace 5 rocker studs on 5 seperate occasions this year and readjusted all rockers for added security, but now I feel fortunate.
Nice setup though!
#5
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Thread Starter
Re: Adjusted valves
Ok after adjusting the valves I think they are still a little noisy. the cam is a hydraulic flat tappet. The rocker arms are Crane gold, except for 2 rockers arms that the previous owner replaced because the pushrod cups were scored. The 2 new rocker arms are blue. The cam and lifters are new. I adjusted them to 0 lash and then 1 full turn of the adjusting nut. What brand of rocker arms are blue? What do others lash their rocker arms to?
#6
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Thread Starter
Re: Adjusted valves
Here is the latest update on my valve train situation. After taking out the boat last Thursday, I thought the valves still sounded a little noisy. I decided that I wasn't comfortable with how it sounded and put it back on the trailer. Yesterday I took the turbos off again and checked the rockers, nuts, studs, guide plates and valve tips. The motor has all Crane gold race rockers except for two which on e is a Gereral Kinetics and the other is a Crane, except it has a wider body that the others. I checked the touque on all the studs and found none loose. I checked all the adjusting nuts for crack and they were all OK. All the pushrods were OK, except they have pushed in ends. I replace them over the winter with a good chrome moly 1 piece pushrod. All the crane rockers felt OK when I pivoted their fulcrums and none felt gritty and all the tips felt and looked OK too. I think I found the problem was the General kinetics rocker and the wide body crane rocker. The General Kinetics had a tip the was not parallel to the fulcrum, which caused the tip to start to cut a groove into the body. The crane rocker had some sreious flat spots on the tip. The tip surface was wavy parellel to the centerline. I ordered 2 new ones from Summit last week and hope to have them soon. This just goes to prove to me that no matter what someone says about things being right ( the previous owner) they cant be trusted. I will feel better knowing that part of the valve train is put back together right and I did the best I could at this time. Here is a picture on the Gereral Kinetics junk rocker.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Powerboat P1
General Boating Discussion
0
07-12-2008 09:39 AM
open87
Trucks, Trailers and Transportation
11
03-01-2008 07:07 PM