https://www.cpperformance.com/p-7394...per-brass.aspx

So I have about 4hrs on my fresh 509 build and she runs awesome but over the winter I'm debating aluminum heads to boost power a bit. With that also will come switching to a closed loop system so the engine doesn't see lake water and ruin the heads over time. Anyone tired this CP or Hardin kit? Only thing I hate is it being located right on top of the engine its UGLY and just makes servicing it that much more difficult. I have so much room side to side I wish they made a remote exchanger kit or can I just retrofit this one for a more appropriate spot?

What have you guys done to go from open to closed loop cooling?

Do not hesitate. In my 17 years of go-fast boating THIS kit and my Daytona CD1 box stand out as the best money ever spent on a boat. I’ve posted that several times on here.

The aesthetic issue was a concern of mine but I got over that instantly. Life is so much better with closed cooling.

servicing is not an issue. Not sure if you have std deck or tall deck motors but it fits both - I have tall decks. Temp NEVER leaves 150*.

mine is a Vbelt arrangement so there was a bit of work dealing with the PS pump, but worth it.

Very nice looking setup. Sometimes remote isn't an option...and function is beauty.

Unless it's one of those new silly looking pointy wedge bow boats...lol.

awesome, I think I’m going to do this then. My boat is V belt as well, I want to put aluminum heads on it but not until it isn’t raw water cooled so another expensive winter ahead lol.

yep - I have aluminum heads which is what drove me to spend the money, but I’ll never own another raw water cooled boat again. You just sleep better!!

as you can see I painted mine ahead of install. I actually like having them mounted on the motors because if you need to yank a motor they just come off with it as one entity.

I will paint mine before installing as well, not sure if I want it Black, White or Purple to stick with the theme. Question, what polished pulleys are you running I would like to add them as well.

This winter its being converted to Holley EFI and removing the carb as well.

I used a Hardin/Orca kit on my VP and it works like a champ. Mine mounts off the back of the heads... which created a whole 'nuther list of fitment issues, but nothing that couldn't be worked around.
The Orca mounts supported the tank too low... so I had to make taller brackets to raise the tank... and also had to relocate the hatch lift assy.
The instructions were also terrible... so it helps to have a basic idea how the cooling system works and how its divided with the kit.

Factory VP systems used a vertical tank mounted on the starboard front of the engine. I actually like it mounted at the back... so that's a bonus. No interference with front mounted accessories.

Seaford, Nicely done..
Do you have coolant recovery tanks and if so, where did you mount them? I'm curious at what height compared to the radiator cap they need to be to function. properly.
I'm in the process of re-doing the engines and engine bay. I would like to remount mine because they were in the way of accessing the far side of the motors. You can see them on the edges of the pic hanging from the hatch lip.
I might have to copy your idea for color on the tanks.

I used Merc parts. At cruise they run between 160-170, and 150 above 60 mph. I got them used, from Mike Mello. I opened them up, cleaned them out, and resealed the ends. With the mounting hardware included, I have maybe $700 in the whole thing (both engines). I run aluminum heads, too - protecting the investment.

I added a 1/2 system to my 42' Sportfish w/Twin 502s about seven years ago after installing AFR heads. As said above, it's one of the best things I have done to my boat.
Temp is solid at all speeds all the time. The only thing I did different was mounting heat exchanger parallel to stringers under the engine. Yes it makes a little more work
when pulling the engine but I try to not make it a habit!

Steve