can I straighten a curved skeg??
#1
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From: Murray,KY
I have a tig, should I just saw it off and weld on another piece? Will it bend with some heat? It is causing strange handling above 60.I have twins. It's not just bent or I could weld a bead and draw it over some. I had skeg gaurds and removed them and handling got worse because the skeg gaurds covered the prob.,,I know,get full hydraulics,but this needs to be repaired regardless. Anyone done this before? Thanks
#2
Every Time We Tried To Straighten One It Broke. You Can Try Heating It Befor And Try. You May Still End Up Welding A New One On. Try A Wood Block Behind The Alum. And Hit It With A Big Rubber Hammer. Good Luck
#3
Originally Posted by WILDTHING TAZ
Every Time We Tried To Straighten One It Broke. You Can Try Heating It Befor And Try. You May Still End Up Welding A New One On. Try A Wood Block Behind The Alum. And Hit It With A Big Rubber Hammer. Good Luck
#5
If you can bend it back, providing you are talking just about a slight bend, it will be stronger than welding on a peice. You need to support the back side of the skeg, otherwise SNAP!
#6
You need to beat it with a hammer, if you bend it (all at once) it will break. Pounding it will work but it does depend how bent it is. Make sure you back it up with a chunk of steel or at least a wooden block. I fixed mine this way.
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Ray
Ray
#7
I've bent a bunch and knoked em back. Every now and then they'll break but I've had excellent luck with the "heat it and beat it" method.
I take a tempwax stick (300 degree) and draw a stripe on the gearcase right above the skeg (loosen the oil vent plug). Heat on both sides of the bend with a big old rosebud tip on an oxy/acetylene torch till the wax mark melts. Beat on the skeg and move it some. Let it cool to about 150. Repeat until you get her straight. If it is a curve instead of a line bend, then start by heating nearer to the top of the curve and eyeball it straight. Reheat lower and lower till shes straight. Takes a little practice.
If it breaks off, welding a new one on is no biggie. You'll need to replace the proshaft seal after welding a new one on but that's the only downer.
I take a tempwax stick (300 degree) and draw a stripe on the gearcase right above the skeg (loosen the oil vent plug). Heat on both sides of the bend with a big old rosebud tip on an oxy/acetylene torch till the wax mark melts. Beat on the skeg and move it some. Let it cool to about 150. Repeat until you get her straight. If it is a curve instead of a line bend, then start by heating nearer to the top of the curve and eyeball it straight. Reheat lower and lower till shes straight. Takes a little practice.
If it breaks off, welding a new one on is no biggie. You'll need to replace the proshaft seal after welding a new one on but that's the only downer.






