I am patiently waiting for a running engine


Ok If I may talk electrical and sound like a big Geek.

Two blue top optimas wired series for each turbine. (24volt)
Two blue top optimas wired pararell. Run boat. (12volt)

6 batterys total

12 volt pararell charged by bellhousing mounted alternator.
24 volt series batteries charged by Starter/ Generators on
turbines.

Using the standard key switches for piston engines.
Key on will turn all acc on. Also put 12 volt to the fuel solenoids.
These are comming from MARK-NYE a canadian company
which specializes in turbine boats.
They are elec 12volt coil which opens or closes the fuel to the
turbines. This is how we shut them down.

The crank position of the key switch will energize the fuel start solenoid.
There will be a momentary switch mounted right near the key switch
this switch will power the starter and ignitors.
After it fires you throw the start charge enabling the reverse current relay.
Now the charge 24 goes to series batteries. I should see volt increase on 24 volt meters.

This design will also allow the spool up compressor wash without fuel.

The idea of the start fuel solenoid on the key will allow the feature of shutting down the xtra fuel which will help if the pyro is climbing on a wanabe hot start.

Ok now that I spewed all this BS I will go to lunch.

What are you doin with the old powerplants? Wall decorations?

If the key switch has seperate terminals for 12v and 24v then no problem. May want the start fuel on a momentary on switch, it usually dosent take more than a couple quick flicks to start the motors. Otherwise it sounds simple; simple is good.

Final thoughts on steering pumps?

Just found the thread again; everything looks good. Brad.

Knot Right

this isnt a photo of your first water trial is it?

http://www.offshoreonly.com/gallery/...hp?photo=12536

There going to a good home

Steering pump will be piggy backed off the single 12 volt alternator.
There is only 12 comming off the key switch however I can
use a 12 volt marine solenoid to trigger the 24 to the contactor coils.

The only thing that will need 24 will be turbine spool up.
and whatever other 24 acc the turbine requires.

Your scaring me

Here is another look at the shifters.
I bought all new micro switches from Newark electronics.

Check them to see if I pinched any wires and shorted to ground.


I also got new coils for the air solenoids for the air over hydraulic brake setup.These are 12volt.


There are actualy two micro switches the second is
on the throttle so that it must be pulled all the way to idle
speed to engage the break.

Great thread!
I do not have any experence w/ turbine boats, but have been burning jet a for 20+ years in a/c.
I have a question and opinion.
1) Why 6 batteries? I can see a seperate 12volt system for the boat (although finding 24 volt systems for the rest of the boat may be not a bad idea), but 4 engine airplanes can do fine with ONE battery. That is a LOT of extra weight/complexity/cost. For multi engine installs, you start one engine, let the battery charge till you see the rate go down to what is appropriate, and hit the other starter. Then you get a cross generator start, providing a lower start temp on the second engine. You alternate which engine gets the first start.
2) The key switch thing: you do NOT want your start motor wired to a spring loaded switch. You let go at the wrong time during a start (or a connection gets goofy in the switch) and you will have an expensive day. If it were me, I would have a master switch for the entire boat controlled by a on/off key and solenoid, or just the start solenoids armed with an on/off key switch. But just a simple on/off switch for the starter. On most set ups, selecting off on the starter throws it over to a generator mode on the starter/generator. I have seen the aftermath of start interuped, and it 'aint pretty. You have enough to concentrate on during a start, don't make keeping the start circuit energized an extra that you have to think about. BTW, most installs in a/c have a "starter energized light" on the panel.
And, always make sure your batterie(!)s are 100% before you start! For lead acid you need to see 24 volts minimum ( I like digital readouts for this) before the start. You can get by with weak batteries on everything but turbines!

Fwiw....