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-   -   Outboard skater BS thread! (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/skater/312322-outboard-skater-bs-thread.html)

risco 05-01-2017 03:56 PM


Originally Posted by Skater30 (Post 4550654)
All boats will be about the same - 1/4"-3/8" depth tapering to 0.00" @ approximately 8" forward of the transom. You won't want to go deeper than 1/4" - 3/8" into the glass at the transom, as you might start getting into the coring/transom wood. I recommend you coat whatever you modify with resin to assure a seal-coat over what lies beneath. I had to do this to my first 28 to get my water pressure back when I went to 2.25" above the bottom with the gearcases.

Have any pictures by any chance? I really don't like the idea of getting in to core.

AZMIDLYF 05-01-2017 07:01 PM

These are from a 30 Skater if it helps:

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/a...egin-image.jpg

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/a...egin-image.jpg

Taboma 05-01-2017 07:53 PM

Those are exactly like mine from Skater. I would make them a little deeper...maybe 1/4" deep.

Esox4130 05-01-2017 08:25 PM

Look same as my 21 with twins. After they were cut in it pegged the water pressure. In the 21 there is no core there it's just about 3/8-1/2 inch thick fiberglass with no core for the last foot. I assume the 24 is the same.

risco 05-09-2017 07:05 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by AZMIDLYF (Post 4550836)


Originally Posted by Taboma (Post 4550853)
Those are exactly like mine from Skater. I would make them a little deeper...maybe 1/4" deep.


Originally Posted by Esox4130 (Post 4550856)
Look same as my 21 with twins. After they were cut in it pegged the water pressure. In the 21 there is no core there it's just about 3/8-1/2 inch thick fiberglass with no core for the last foot. I assume the 24 is the same.

Thank you all going to try this weekend will let you know how it truns out . I'm maxed out on plates can't go down any more so this is my last option. Also another how do you guys feel about hooking both engines together with a hose in back seen it done before just didn't understand reasoning behind it.

Again thanks for all the help Ryan and also here a picture of my last ride [ATTACH=CONFIG]567267[/ATTACH]

Esox4130 05-09-2017 07:24 PM

It's to feed the other water if it loses pressure when turning etc. when mine were cut in it pinned the water pressure gauges same with my buddy's 24. If your worried about getting into the core take the drain out to check but pretty sure it's going to be like my 21 and be all glass the last foot. Let us know how it goes.

Taboma 05-10-2017 08:08 AM


Originally Posted by risco (Post 4552844)
Thank you all going to try this weekend will let you know how it truns out . I'm maxed out on plates can't go down any more so this is my last option. Also another how do you guys feel about hooking both engines together with a hose in back seen it done before just didn't understand reasoning behind it.

Again thanks for all the help Ryan and also here a picture of my last ride [ATTACH=CONFIG]567267[/ATTACH]

Connecting the motors with a hose really helps keep the pressures equal in turns. Before Shaun Torrente showed me how to do it, I would consistently get low water pressure alarms when turning pretty tight in high speed turns. Drill 1/2" NTP thread in the port side of the adapter plates and connect with a -10 AN fitting and hose thru the rigging tubes to each motor.

Esox4130 05-10-2017 08:16 AM

It's there a valve between motors to. If one motor isn't running isn't all water going to dump out other while idling etc.

Taboma 05-10-2017 08:29 AM

No valve in mine. I haven't had that problem. I guess the water pressure from the "lake" that the gear case is in creates enough resistance (pressure) for the water in the running motor to get to the impeller without dumping to the off motor, then the impeller does it's work. I have noticed an X-Cat with what looked like a ball valve to separate the motors, when desired, installed. A check valve would defeat the system IMO.

dubaudi 05-10-2017 11:11 AM

Anyone know what product I can use to fix chips on my spray rails from loading on the trailer? All my research says to use Iron 555-U that is no longer available. Has anyone confirmed that axalta Imron is the same product just rebranded?


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