OB Skater CG Discussions
04-21-2016, 10:27 AM
#31
I gave TNT Bobs 4" Hydraulic brackets. They look real strong i will let you know. I am going to play with filling in my notch in small amounts at a time. It will be a lot of work but i will let you know what happens. The notch on a 30 is way to big 5" deep and 22" in length. I think a 28 skater is 2.5" deep and 16" length. If you run a 30' hard in ruff water you cant keep the bow down. I have owend 3 differant 28' and they are balanced very well.
I always considered length but not depth on it. Are you going to alter one or both factors!
04-21-2016, 11:26 AM
#32
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
yea lots of variables for sure, but you'd have known point to work from and as you moved things for feel you could go back and check it out the same way...get to see how it changes with what you stated...that would be interesting to see.
04-21-2016, 01:43 PM
#34
You are 100 percent correct things when dynamic are not quite the same as on a scale. I also have had different props for certain conditions. It all factors into the equation.
Gold Member
04-21-2016, 05:25 PM
#36
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I see the fuel burn as a problem if you want to go long distances.
We are gonna go 180 miles on the dam to dam run (2 miles/gallon = 90 gallons X 8lbs = 720lbs).
That's gonna change almost 800 lbs in the rear over the course of the day.
Would be better to start a little light in the bow or better to end a little light in the stern??
Very interesting.....
We are gonna go 180 miles on the dam to dam run (2 miles/gallon = 90 gallons X 8lbs = 720lbs).
That's gonna change almost 800 lbs in the rear over the course of the day.
Would be better to start a little light in the bow or better to end a little light in the stern??
Very interesting.....
04-21-2016, 05:42 PM
#37
Racer
Racer
The fuel tanks in an outboard Skater are generally OVER the CG. Other that all the weight (of fuel) making the boat sluggish, it really shouldn't effect the CG on your 28, much. I assume you'll do the dam to dam run in the early AM so boat traffic (wakes) shouldn't be an issue. I would not add any weight to the nose for that run.
04-22-2016, 06:17 AM
#38
Brett,
You have already had a taste of how your boat responds to rough water with no ballast. If it were me and this is only my opinion I would put 50 gallons a side in no more, I would remove any access weight you can. anchors, additional oil etc. I would 100 percent run the ballast up front based on how the boat is rigged and run the 32" pitch props you had. They will allow you to run well over 100mph and carry the weight better than the 34's.
I can tell you with the way your boat is rigged the ballast will provide far more benefits than not having it. Unless you are the only boat on the lake that day out front you will be good to go.
Just my .02 cents.
You have already had a taste of how your boat responds to rough water with no ballast. If it were me and this is only my opinion I would put 50 gallons a side in no more, I would remove any access weight you can. anchors, additional oil etc. I would 100 percent run the ballast up front based on how the boat is rigged and run the 32" pitch props you had. They will allow you to run well over 100mph and carry the weight better than the 34's.
I can tell you with the way your boat is rigged the ballast will provide far more benefits than not having it. Unless you are the only boat on the lake that day out front you will be good to go.
Just my .02 cents.
04-22-2016, 06:37 AM
#39
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Brett,
You have already had a taste of how your boat responds to rough water with no ballast. If it were me and this is only my opinion I would put 50 gallons a side in no more, I would remove any access weight you can. anchors, additional oil etc. I would 100 percent run the ballast up front based on how the boat is rigged and run the 32" pitch props you had. They will allow you to run well over 100mph and carry the weight better than the 34's.
I can tell you with the way your boat is rigged the ballast will provide far more benefits than not having it. Unless you are the only boat on the lake that day out front you will be good to go.
Just my .02 cents.
You have already had a taste of how your boat responds to rough water with no ballast. If it were me and this is only my opinion I would put 50 gallons a side in no more, I would remove any access weight you can. anchors, additional oil etc. I would 100 percent run the ballast up front based on how the boat is rigged and run the 32" pitch props you had. They will allow you to run well over 100mph and carry the weight better than the 34's.
I can tell you with the way your boat is rigged the ballast will provide far more benefits than not having it. Unless you are the only boat on the lake that day out front you will be good to go.
Just my .02 cents.
That's what we will do.
Now if you guys could all show up and swat away those damn PWCs we will have a clean run
04-22-2016, 07:45 AM
#40
Registered
How accurate or not at all would one be with taking a side profile picture of a boat parked in calm water and having someone with knowledge look at it? Could you tell by the water line?
MDS
MDS
