Trimming the drive?
#1
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From: Sterling Heights, MI
I have a 24 foot boat with a 454 Mag with KPlanes.
How far are you trimming out the drive when you are running? I am having a tough time trying to determine if I have the bow high enough. I run faster in the midrange with the prop down? But the bow feels to low. If I trim it out in the midrange, It will start to porpoise. I am typically running in 1-3 foot confused chop. I am running a 25" Mach Stern Driver prop. I am going to run a 24" BravoI next time out. I would like all the input you could give me on how you run your boat.
Thanks for the input.
How far are you trimming out the drive when you are running? I am having a tough time trying to determine if I have the bow high enough. I run faster in the midrange with the prop down? But the bow feels to low. If I trim it out in the midrange, It will start to porpoise. I am typically running in 1-3 foot confused chop. I am running a 25" Mach Stern Driver prop. I am going to run a 24" BravoI next time out. I would like all the input you could give me on how you run your boat.
Thanks for the input.
#2
for top speed trim it up. If you over trim it the boat will be way! loose. ANd will pick up usually too much rpms. For mid range nutral trim is usually good. Getting on plane tuck er in. For following seas trim it up a bit because the bow will want to stick to the waves for oncoming waves just the opposite.
#3
Your boat will run totally different in 1' waves vs. 3' waves.
I have not ever tried a Mach prop so I can't comment on that. I have run Mirage and Mirage+ 3 blade props, stock and modified Bravo One 4 blade, and today I tried OH-Zone's Hydro P5-X.
Bravo 1 props are good out of the box and great when modified for extra bow lift.
In water 1' and less I run without tabs an with varying amounts of trim. The faster I'm running, the more I trim up.
In 3' waves I would run with my tabs at neutral and then trim the drive accordingly.
With the right prop and some seat time, you we learn how trim her and eliminate the porpoise.
I have not ever tried a Mach prop so I can't comment on that. I have run Mirage and Mirage+ 3 blade props, stock and modified Bravo One 4 blade, and today I tried OH-Zone's Hydro P5-X.
Bravo 1 props are good out of the box and great when modified for extra bow lift.
In water 1' and less I run without tabs an with varying amounts of trim. The faster I'm running, the more I trim up.
In 3' waves I would run with my tabs at neutral and then trim the drive accordingly.
With the right prop and some seat time, you we learn how trim her and eliminate the porpoise.
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Patrick
Patrick
#5
Originally Posted by RazorsEdge
How was the P5-X?
I could tell there is more stern lift and overall lift than a Bravo 4 blade, but the boat still ran vary stable.
I'm not sure how the extra stern lift would effect the ride in the rough???
It probably would have been just as fast as the B1 if it was the right pitch for my boat.
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Patrick
Patrick
#6
Hey Razor,
What year is your hull? Step or pre-step? With a 454 Mag you should be able to turn a 26 bravo. I think without spending a ton of $$ on some exotic prop, a Bravo1 is the best for the 24 Super. I run a 28 straight out of the box.
My hull is a '98. I find that my hull doesn't require a lot of positive trim. Over trimming is a good way to get in trouble. I have "neutral" marked on my drive and trim indicator. In 3' water I would be at neutral settings for tabs and drive. 2' a little more trim and a little less tab. On flat water, tabs all the way up and some positive trim but not too much. If you have a GPS you can easily find the sweet spot. Keep trimming till you notice a DECREASE in speed. The bump the trim down slightly and your there.
What year is your hull? Step or pre-step? With a 454 Mag you should be able to turn a 26 bravo. I think without spending a ton of $$ on some exotic prop, a Bravo1 is the best for the 24 Super. I run a 28 straight out of the box.
My hull is a '98. I find that my hull doesn't require a lot of positive trim. Over trimming is a good way to get in trouble. I have "neutral" marked on my drive and trim indicator. In 3' water I would be at neutral settings for tabs and drive. 2' a little more trim and a little less tab. On flat water, tabs all the way up and some positive trim but not too much. If you have a GPS you can easily find the sweet spot. Keep trimming till you notice a DECREASE in speed. The bump the trim down slightly and your there.
#7
Originally Posted by Dave M
Hey Razor,
What year is your hull? Step or pre-step? With a 454 Mag you should be able to turn a 26 bravo. I think without spending a ton of $$ on some exotic prop, a Bravo1 is the best for the 24 Super. I run a 28 straight out of the box.
My hull is a '98. I find that my hull doesn't require a lot of positive trim. Over trimming is a good way to get in trouble. I have "neutral" marked on my drive and trim indicator. In 3' water I would be at neutral settings for tabs and drive. 2' a little more trim and a little less tab. On flat water, tabs all the way up and some positive trim but not too much. If you have a GPS you can easily find the sweet spot. Keep trimming till you notice a DECREASE in speed. The bump the trim down slightly and your there.
What year is your hull? Step or pre-step? With a 454 Mag you should be able to turn a 26 bravo. I think without spending a ton of $$ on some exotic prop, a Bravo1 is the best for the 24 Super. I run a 28 straight out of the box.
My hull is a '98. I find that my hull doesn't require a lot of positive trim. Over trimming is a good way to get in trouble. I have "neutral" marked on my drive and trim indicator. In 3' water I would be at neutral settings for tabs and drive. 2' a little more trim and a little less tab. On flat water, tabs all the way up and some positive trim but not too much. If you have a GPS you can easily find the sweet spot. Keep trimming till you notice a DECREASE in speed. The bump the trim down slightly and your there.
I run my 1997 straight V exactly the same...
I ran my 28p Bravo 1 box stock last year and had it modified this off season to raise the rpm a little and to increase the "sweet spot". The Hydro P5-X is an awesome prop if you have the $$ to spend, but a B1 will do the trick...
If I'm running slow, say under 40mph, I do sometimes use the tabs to run more stable.
Happy Boating!
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Patrick
Patrick
#8
One other observation. depending on what kind of boat you are comming out of or were used to. In the 24 with the drop out bolsters you actually sit quite high in the boat which when looking forward gives you the feeling that you are running more nose down. Ihad the drop outs in my 24 as well. This was the first sensation I got when I had mine. Superbash put the sitdowwn buckets in his 24 similar to the 30 Y2k and the lower position was MUCH BETTER! Porpoising could be due to overtrimming it as well as the inability of that prop to carry the bow.





