1st off I think I prefer the Rolls trailer. I spoke w/Danny @ Rolls and he said he could probably fabricate a swing for tongue but has never been asked to do that on that size trailer. He says that you would only gain 18" or so and he's not sure what your trying to gain but if you want it he'll do it. What do you think?

If Krak gives us the lenght of the 1" step he added to the rear of the bunk Danny will incorporate that in to the bunk

Gary H,
I have a large fountain next to the house. Trying not to relocate it so I can just have the boat in front and close the gate. If I remember I have 34 to 35' before it has to move.

Cool! Glad to see you checking Rolls out - I'll get the measurement on the step bunk, I think it was 48" - perhaps Rick can tell us the length of the last step?

I mounted a 2x6" onto the existing bunk and then covered it with bunk carpet. It would be nicer if Danny can mill down the cedar bunk accordingly insted - I almost opted for that with a local carpenter, but it was a lot more effort to remove the bunks and then remount.

I am still also fitting my midship bunks, they need about a 2" lift at the bow to match the SB hull curvature. I'll talk with Danny on this next week......and get you that measurement.

Keith

wAY TO GO kEITH !!!

Thanks Keith, myt thoughts exactly mill down the forward section of the rear bunk 1"

Tom so do you want me to ask for a price for the swing a way tongue then? Anything else you can think of? I think I'll spring for the alloys as well. I'm assuming you want it shipped to JC's as for me that would be fine. Danny wasnt sure on shipping cost. He has some options, and if time enough exists, possibly someone from his shop may be able to run them. Whats JC say about completion time for ya?

Yes, no, and Yes. JC has not said. Sometime this spring?

I just measured the SB, the rear step is 52" to the transom, and 1.5" deep.

I used a 2"x6"x48", and it seemed to work nicely.

Tom, Spoke w/Danny to get some more accurate #'s he said the swing-a-way will save you at least 18 inches. He needs to engineer one strong enough and figure a price. Wiring will be a 5 flat connecter. a 4 flat plug will work, but the 5th pin is for the backup lights to activate the selinoid to releave hydrolic pressure on the surge brake. Which leads me to this recomendation for you as I'm doing it on my trailer, that is, putting a manual shut off valve in the brake line so if your moving the trailer and have no juice to activate the selinoid you can back up the trailer w/out locking up the wheels (comes in handy at the boatyard where they always try to muscle the trailer around with a forklift or something). Just my advice and a cheap item that can make your life a lot easier as well as not beating up the trailer!

Anyway Danny will be getting back to me /us in short order with some solid #'s
Tom:
if they are agreeable are you ready to pull the trigger.