JamesGang

Jeff thanks for the compliment but its just common knowledge from work. I have been doing restorative structural drying for over 30 years. Here’s a page from my website that I direct my customers to if they have had a small water intrusion.
http://mrkscarpet.com/modules/smarts....php?itemid=23

30ctsutphen

No wonder you have so many toys if you can "spin" a water leak that well.LOL

I am clearly in the wrong business

were working our Azzes off and Jimmys over there soaking up water leaks with $100 bills

sixmassive

Thanks for the info. Almost 3 weeks ago i pulled all the through hull fittings that mount the transom other than 4 that are out of the water, and two that were below the waterline. They have been drying out since then. I have not put on a de humidifier. The boat in indoors down here in FL. Do you think it is a must to use the de humidifier?

There is also what sounds like a hollow spot in the center. Richie told me to just let the through hull fittings dry out for a few weeks, then mix some resin, and rig up something so the resin can be soaked up by the transom. then with the hollow spot. drill a hole towards the top of it and do the same thing.

With the jets, will i have to retune the carbs?

JamesGang

Sounds good with the resin I would use West System. You will need the dehumidifier or it could take a year to dry out. No tuning on the carbs all 3 circuits are fixed jets and you only need to do the mains, you can run some gum out for mid range & idle and they will clean out as you run it. Dont pull the carbs off and you wont mess up linkage synchronization. Just pull the air box and the mains face you at the bottom of bowels inside the drains. Very easy only takes 10 minutes to do the whole thing.

30ctsutphen

Id listen to Jimmy He knows his stuff.

When I dont know something about OB's thats my first call!

Usually my only call needed.

sixmassive

edit: i found some for rent.

do you think a single etec 300 or net yamaha 300 would push the boat just as good if not better than the v8?

JamesGang

I was trying to get a better look at what you have there. It looks like about a 1985 3.6 300 with a 25" shaft. Let me know what it is that you have.

sixmassive

86 3.6gt with the 28" shaft. I cant make my mind up if i really need twins to push this boat. i would like to stay on the cheaper side of the spectrum and stick with a single 300 but i dont want to strain the motor, and also dont want to look back 6 months down the road and wish i would have gotten twins

JamesGang

Thats a 25" no such thing as a 28" and I doubt its a 30. Is it a 300 or a 275HP. If its a 86 300 I think with some dial in you can get 70 out of it. A new E Tech or a Merc 300XS would give you more grunt out of the hole but might not give you any more up top. Just run it for a few years, get your time out of it & then re rig. I would dial that thing in real good with one engine & piss some people off. Don't know what you have on it for a prop but a 14.5 x 24 Raker might work pretty well for you. Don't put a low water PU nose cone on it. Put a small nose cone on it and close up top 1/2 of your water PUs on side of case and run it as high as you can before losing water pressure. 10 to 12 lbs is OK on that engine its a volume fill block. Set your gearcase up to look like this. This aluminum nose cone is something that Land & Sea sold years ago. I only have a few left and don't want to sell them but there is a guy on Scream and Fly ( JenkSam ) who may be able to come up with one for you. You don't need a blow out ring (that is in rear by bearing carrier) because you will be running a through hub exhaust style prop. The reason you don't want a low water PU nose cone on that boat is because extending the length of case will create too much drag with the depth you will have to run it to push the boat with one prop. You have to get the case almost completely out to overcome the drag and not go slower and with one engine its not happenin on that boat.

sixmassive

Thanks james, i appreciate the input. the boat runs pretty well with the single. there are just a few things that scare me. I originally wanted to build the block to 385 w/ EFI and run it, but the stories from people on S&F send me looking into other options. But it is nice to see you have faith as i originally did.

it is the 86 300 not the 275. it is the 25" shaft, and the exhaust snout was not available except on the 20"mid. the 25" mid actually measures to 28"(i read on S&F)

i tried to change the water pump yesterday but the drive shaft is stuck in the crank and i couldn't get it out. tried wedging it with wood and cranking it to loosen it up but no good. i will need to put some real force to get it out. the motor is still on the boat and only 4 bolts are in the bracket holding it to the transom so i was cautious.

Richie told me the setback is way to much on the boat. but without that setback the motor wont tilt all the way up. i dont mind that much though. If i knew the ideal CG and what a light boat CG was i could figure out what moment i needed and have the proper setback.

I heard the V8 gear cases dont like to surface and when they do, they grenade. I'm running a 21 mirage plus 3 blade and have had the boat to 5500 and it had more. But the steering is so loose and no tabs, it gets squirrely.

I was talking to Monty Racing about building the block and he wanted to bore it to a 4.0. He said the 3.6GT was not as good as the 4.0.

I was really gun hoe about the V8 because of the looks it got and the sound until recently. i really have no desire to do 80, and wanted to keep it simple.

this post was a little longer than intended lol. sorry

here is a pic of the motor up close.