Hi, I've been thinking about converting to disc brakes on my triple axle boat trailer. I would like to "stay" with the surge coupler to lessen the cost and make the trailer towable by any vehicle! I am planning on swapping the master cylinder for a disc brake master and know I'll have to add a reversing solenoid valve. Has anyone done a drum to disc swap and stayed with a surge coupler, if so with what results?I've seen a surge coupler used by Formula under their 38' Poker Run Demo boat with the new 700 & NXT drives so it's not just for smaller or in-expensive rigs! I was planning on using Kodiaks discs on all axles. Thanks for any feedback on this topic! Steve P.S. current drum brake set-up is marginal as far as braking assist and I've never been able to improve the stopping ability with shoe adjustments!

Do you still have your 26' Sonic?

I did the same thing on my Rocket Trailer under my 26' Sonic.
The Rocket trailer was/is a POS. I basically rebuilt the whole thing.
I went from single drum to tandem Kodiak Disks. Check this thread for info:

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=46461

These links will help:
I have used :

http://www.championtrailers.com/

Others on OSO have suggested :

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/

I got my brakes direct from:

http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/




My current trailer is triple axle, with brakes on the back two. It works well. The folks at Champion know everything pretty well as far as the couplers go. You don't have to replace the MC. You just have to remove a one way valve at the brake line connection.

Hi Brian, I knew you'ld respond you trailer guru . Yes I still have my Prowler, put a 525EFI in last month and it woke things up quite a bit . I know you don't have to change the master cyl., you can just puncture the rubber "framis" but I thought just to be sure everythings up to snuff I'ld replace it just in case. I probably don't need to go to brakes on all axles since my overall weight isn't that high but if I'm going to the trouble? Does your trailer for your Active Thunder have surge? Thanks for the reply! Steve

Steve,
Awesome on the new motor!

When I changed my Rocket Trailer over, I disassembled and removed the whole one-way valve.

I have surge on my current trailer. They work fantastic, now. I replaced the whole MC/assembly and the return springs. Unfortunately, the manufacturer had installed the MC/assembly for DRUM brakes!

This pic shows part of the coupler. I have a Dico/Titan Model 20 coupler, as sold by Champion.



Good luck.

Brian

I did the conversion on my MagicTilt trailer a number of years ago and like Sydwayz removed the check valve from my Dico surge unit with no problems. Last year I converted to torsion axles with larger discs.

Maybe I'll just remove the check valve as suggested after a visual inspection of the master cylinder. My conversion may be a little harder due to the fact that the coupler is "encased" in the trailer frame/tongue instead of bolted onto it. I'm starting to lean towards just doing the back two axles, given my boat weight it should be more than sufficient. Brian, just wondering if your trailer came with a drum brake master why couldn't you just remove the check valve as you suggested to me? I've heard that disc and drum systems require different volumes and that's why I thought it would be best to change out my master. Just trying to learn whatever I can here! Thanks for the help! Steve

I think you may be right Steve on the volume thing, but I don't know enough about the systems to be sure.

I replaced mine just due to age/mileage. The trailer is a 2003, and it has been across the country several times. My favorite lake is an 8 hour round-trip tow, and I also towed to Chicago and back this summer. I figured it could stop better, and it sure as hell does. SIGNIFICANT difference. You are very right in that it may be better for you to replace.

Now, everytime I come to a stoplight, people tell me my brakes are smoking. In a way they are, but not due to dragging. Over the miles, my seals have leaked out some grease around the hub, caliper, and inside the wheels. This tends to smoke a bit now that the brakes are working better and heating up a little.

There are a few technical support folks at Champion, that may be able to guide you. I called several trailer shops in the Richmond, VA area, looking for someone to actually do the coupler rebuild (bought the parts from Champion), as I do not yet have a good workbench and sold vice. I did find one that really knew what they were doing, and he literally had the whole thing done in under 2 hours. I know its quite the distance, but I can put you in touch if needed.

just put new kodiaks on my myco. buy direct , best price.

cadmium 12" rotors , ss calipers, blasted my dexter hubs , fresh paint , and go with the steel mount plates , stay away from the stainless mounts!!! go with the steel...i just sent the stainless mounts back due to poor casting ..not lining up pad with the rotor.
put new timkens in , and went with the air tight wear ring pressure hub system. www.airtighthubs.com

open72, Did you convert from drums on your trailer? I was going to buy the complete brake and hub assembly , web site indicates (if I'm reading it correctly) that when just adding the brake assembly (no hub) that the wheel offset increases by a 1/2", not sure if I can handle additional offset due to fender clearance. Never heard of the airtight hubs, maybe that's what Sydwayz needs. My sister has a camp on the river in Covington near you ( Tchfuncta River) will be down for a visit next month! Brian, thanks for the offer, but I think I'll try it myself, have a pretty good group of friends if I need help! Steve

no, it had just 1 set of iron calipers/rotors.. i'd stay away from that 1 piece unit...