Eagle trailer redo
#54
If you are going to do it, go all out.

I really like the simple, non converted-over look that mine ended up as now, that it's done. Once I ground the reinforcement tabs off and the tongue top flush with the coupler tube, there was no going back.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 08-19-2008 at 09:51 PM. Reason: can't spell worth chit
#55
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From: 1000 Islands
the brake lines are maybe just a few inches too long though they are standard issue length...
they will innevitably be in contact with the leaf spring, so I put some flex loom over then and will keep a close eye.
though I'm thinking old fasion storm door spring around them hung from the bottom of the frame will keep them out of trouble.
they will innevitably be in contact with the leaf spring, so I put some flex loom over then and will keep a close eye.
though I'm thinking old fasion storm door spring around them hung from the bottom of the frame will keep them out of trouble.
#56
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From: 1000 Islands
the uni-strut for suspending the boxes which according to shipping wieght are 34 lbs. each. this is galvanized, so a good wash with TSP and water then sprayed multiple thin coats of a quality semi-gloss.
this material is usually $2-3 ft. my buddy hooked me up with some NOS from a past vendor for .75 ft.
$24.24 with tax for 3/ 10 ft. lengths.
this is the 14ga. he has the 12 over there in the current stuff @ 2.36 ft.
I'm 98% sure this will do fine.
u-bolts for this project are on the way.
this material is usually $2-3 ft. my buddy hooked me up with some NOS from a past vendor for .75 ft.
$24.24 with tax for 3/ 10 ft. lengths.
this is the 14ga. he has the 12 over there in the current stuff @ 2.36 ft.
I'm 98% sure this will do fine.
u-bolts for this project are on the way.
Last edited by Rippem; 08-20-2008 at 01:03 AM.
#57
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From: 1000 Islands
I'm really considering going to an adjustable hight set-up.
this will allow for very subtle changes in tongue wieght
I've got to have some welding done anyway/either way
I'm on to a couple stellar deals on 14/15K rated sets.
I'm maybe just a hair heavy on tongue wt. (and there is no moving the boat back) perhaps only imagined/amplified/ by my HD's rather soft rear spring bundle and stock shocks
I get the "bounce" if I hit the right undulation in the road.
one of these would allow me to bring the front of the trailer frame "up" in relation to the hitch centerline...
I think turning my drawbar over would be too much...that would equate to 4 inches...
these holes are 2" on center
air bags are in the future.
this will allow for very subtle changes in tongue wieght
I've got to have some welding done anyway/either way
I'm on to a couple stellar deals on 14/15K rated sets.
I'm maybe just a hair heavy on tongue wt. (and there is no moving the boat back) perhaps only imagined/amplified/ by my HD's rather soft rear spring bundle and stock shocks
I get the "bounce" if I hit the right undulation in the road.
one of these would allow me to bring the front of the trailer frame "up" in relation to the hitch centerline...
I think turning my drawbar over would be too much...that would equate to 4 inches...
these holes are 2" on center
air bags are in the future.
Last edited by Rippem; 08-20-2008 at 01:01 AM.
#58
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From: 1000 Islands
#59
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From: 1000 Islands
box mounting mock-up
these u-bolts over the frame, with rubber hose over them will suspend the strut.
plates/thick washers? that span the strut beyond the sides will be on the bottom
plywood floor inserts for the obvious reasons... clamping force and no dents out.
SS bolts, nylocks and big fender washers will bolt the plywood and box bottom to the strut.
I don't believe I will need to, but easy enough to back-strap with some aluminum bar stock from the inside box wall back/down to the unistrut if necessary.
again I would put a strip of ply across the side at the level the bolts were if I have to do this.
I expect this whole get-up with leave NO permanent signs on the trailer.
clear tape will also be used over the paint where there is metal to paint or rubber hose to paint contact.
these u-bolts over the frame, with rubber hose over them will suspend the strut.
plates/thick washers? that span the strut beyond the sides will be on the bottom
plywood floor inserts for the obvious reasons... clamping force and no dents out.
SS bolts, nylocks and big fender washers will bolt the plywood and box bottom to the strut.
I don't believe I will need to, but easy enough to back-strap with some aluminum bar stock from the inside box wall back/down to the unistrut if necessary.
again I would put a strip of ply across the side at the level the bolts were if I have to do this.
I expect this whole get-up with leave NO permanent signs on the trailer.
clear tape will also be used over the paint where there is metal to paint or rubber hose to paint contact.



