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Lots of questions about trailer hubs while on the road

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Lots of questions about trailer hubs while on the road

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Old 08-14-2008, 12:31 AM
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You do not need a pyrometer to check wheel bearings. I tow in 100+ degree heat. Touch the hub lightly with your fingers. If adjusted and lubed it will be hot to the touch but not burning. You can tell if there is a drastic difference when you walk around and check them all.
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Old 08-14-2008, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MDSmitty
I've lived on the Bay and on a boat most of my life. I'll only be out in the Bay to run from one tributary to another, from the Bay Bridge up to the Inner Harbor, so the chop is usually not too bad. I'm used to running wide-open in Bay chop in a 20-footer, so this is a step up for me.

There are quite a few mid-20's Checkmates running around in front of my house that seem to do OK in the weekend mixing bowl. Certainly much better than the 13' Checkmate I drove a few times when I was a teenager.

PowerPlay's and Progressions are great boats, but big bucks. And like I mentioned in a previous post, even though I can afford it, for the number of times I'll use it I just can't justify it.
Cool...Have a safe trip
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Old 08-14-2008, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jupiter Sunsation
I have a 3 year old triple axle aluminum trailer that I have towed up to 600 miles in a weekend. It has 6 new tires, new springs, new bearings and I would still go over that trailer with a magnifying glass before embarking on a 950 mile ride.
So are you telling me that boat trailers and trailer tires are engineered so poorly that they're in danger of falling apart even after mild use? Is this a brand problem or all trailers and trailer tires?

I'm very familiar with cars, having done everything from rebuilding engines to replacing the suspension and rear axles. I'm currently restoring an old Mustang. I know how cars are engineered. So besides the problem of water getting into bearings I'm kind of incredulous that trailers would be engineered that poorly.
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Old 08-14-2008, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by MDSmitty
So are you telling me that boat trailers and trailer tires are engineered so poorly that they're in danger of falling apart even after mild use? Is this a brand problem or all trailers and trailer tires?
You need to be careful of steel trailers that have been used in salt water. I bought a brand new Nordic along with their in-house trailer (steel). What a joke, after 3 years is was total garbage, and it was worse on the inside of the tubing. Doesn't matter how much they get cleaned also, salt will eat a steel trailer in short order. It looks as if your new trailer is steel, just make sure you tap on the tubing to make sure it's solid. Also, I know the Chesapeake is brackish, but I would expect too much life out of your trailer once you start dunking it.
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MDSmitty
So are you telling me that boat trailers and trailer tires are engineered so poorly that they're in danger of falling apart even after mild use? Is this a brand problem or all trailers and trailer tires?
Trailers just have the potential for more issues because of the way they are used. They spend a lot of time sitting, when they are used the wheels are submerged completely in water, usually they are warm from the road so warm hubs in cool water can cause water intrusion. The tires get flat spots, again from sitting so much and dry rot if they are out in the sun all the time. Trailer tires aren't as robust as regular tires usually, and most of the time a trailer is engineered with the axles/tires to just barely carry the weight of itself and the boat. They just require a little routine maintenance that's all.
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Old 08-14-2008, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MDSmitty
So are you telling me that boat trailers and trailer tires are engineered so poorly that they're in danger of falling apart even after mild use? Is this a brand problem or all trailers and trailer tires?

I'm very familiar with cars, having done everything from rebuilding engines to replacing the suspension and rear axles. I'm currently restoring an old Mustang. I know how cars are engineered. So besides the problem of water getting into bearings I'm kind of incredulous that trailers would be engineered that poorly.
No but trailers are usually not used for 200K miles like most cars. Cars are much better engineered but even with the simpicity of the trailer you need to be on top of them. I have never had a wheel bearing go bad in a car but have had over 20 go bad on boat, utility trailers over the last 20 years but then again I have owned probably 20 trailers in that time period.
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Old 08-15-2008, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Indy
You need to be careful of steel trailers that have been used in salt water. I bought a brand new Nordic along with their in-house trailer (steel). What a joke, after 3 years is was total garbage, and it was worse on the inside of the tubing. Doesn't matter how much they get cleaned also, salt will eat a steel trailer in short order. It looks as if your new trailer is steel, just make sure you tap on the tubing to make sure it's solid. Also, I know the Chesapeake is brackish, but I would expect too much life out of your trailer once you start dunking it.
Three years is all I got with a steel trailer. Rotted from the inside out. As a matter of fact it was so bad it had to be shipped to lotto on a flatbed.
At the end of each season I run thru the bearings, inspect etc and always expect to change each seal. By the following spring when this boat was shipped it was a total waste of time.
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Old 08-15-2008, 09:11 AM
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I have a aluminum I beam trailer. I have seen some steel trailer manufacturers seal the tube sections and put a guage on the tubes. This seems to be a good idea. You can maintain air pressure in the tubes to keep the water out.
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Old 08-15-2008, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by fossil fuel
I have a aluminum I beam trailer. I have seen some steel trailer manufacturers seal the tube sections and put a guage on the tubes. This seems to be a good idea. You can maintain air pressure in the tubes to keep the water out.
I wouldn't get near a steel trailer if is was the last thing on earth after my experience. It'll affect my next boat purchase also, no aluminum...no deal. Even if it's sealed from the inside, road debris and misc cracks will cause quick rot from the outside. Aluminum I beam all the way. I had it on my PowerPlay and loved it.
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:15 PM
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Aluminum I-beam all the way!

That trailer pictured is likely to have bearing AND tire problems in the first 100 miles. I have had 13 blow-outs and 1 full bearing replacement on the side of I-95;(the wheel flew off & bounced over my sister & her family in their mini-van!) in the last 12 seasons of boating/trailering....and I do routine maintenance as well as carrying all the tools & parts previously mentioned. I carry two spares and a fully assembled hub,(ever since the I-95 scare). Trailering a boat you will eventually deal with these issues;only question is when.....
Good luck on that trip!!
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