I've owned a number of Myco trailers and they're undoubtedly the best- both in terms of construction quality, quality of componentry and how solid thet tow.

But, you don't need a premium trailer to solve this problem, you don't even need a new one. You just need one with the pieces substantial enough to do the job. Bigger axles, springs and brakes under that frame will help, but it still is going to be on the marginal side. Especially if ever called upon to do anything other than roll down the pavement- like a panic maneuver at speed or an attempt to regain control and get back on the road and out of the grass.

Chris,

Is your concern the flex of an I-beam trailer? or do you not believe the beams on this trailer are adequate for the weight. As far as emergency manuevers I have proper training in emergency services vehicles including large fire equipment and heavy trailers, along with all the fun LE training I recieved as an officer...I do miss those times.

I would love to have a Myco by all means but financially it wont happen any time soon.

i recently rebuilt a myco. new everything but the frame. brakes,lights,tires,wiring,and plumbing. brakes on all 3 axles. 7000 lb axles and led lighting. i am giving a rough estimate but i guess we had 4000 dollars in material. this trailer is used for commercial use. you can get a nextrail, owens, loadmaster, or comparable trailer for just a little more money. good luck.

No- the I beam trailers work just as well as any other. It's just they look like they're sized for the average 7500 lb trailer. The size of rails you'd see on a trailer with 5-lug axles The one's used on the next step up are somewhat larger. I could be wrong and the photo could be misleading but at a bare minimum I'd look at some similar trailers with the kind of weight rating that would accommodate your boat.

I've had two significan accidents with trailers and in both cases I didn't have enough equipment. Once was a "just adequate" trailer and the other was a truck "right at the limit".

A trailer with more capacity than you need is worth every penny. They tow better and more smoothly. They're solid enough that they don't flex. bounce & jerk, tugging your truck around. And if you do get a little out of shape, that extra beef definitely comes in handy if you have to muscle it.

I'd just hate to see you dump a bunch of $$ into a trailer and still not have what you need, and I'd hate to see you have an avoidable mishap. Do the numbers on a fix-up and keep watching Ebay. I think you'll see you can do OK, considering your trailer has some value and is a popular size. I would think you could trade up with selling your trailer and the cost of springs, axles, brakes, bunks, etc added to yours.

Picked up the new axles yesterday. Three Dexter EZ Lube 6000lb capacity axles and springs.

if ya go with the Kodiak disk breaks, I would up grade to the ones thats not suppose to rust I bought the sliver/cad coated calipers ,three years now I'm redoing again,they started to rust,even between the rubber slider and caliper [floaters] .it made mine wear uneven were the slider wasn't sliding anymore.i also just redid my md20 actuator ,they came out with some stiffer shocks,so when the breaks arnt working ya don't get that banging.The new pads are ceramic now.

someone suggested to me stainless rotors,I'm not sure about them,haven't heard good or bad??

Also the caliper rear seals I seen 3 different styles,the regular style single lip ,and double lip are easy to get the Myco viton seal is proprietary and the stainless spindle race you can only get from Myco,I change mine over and theres no seal probs anymore,the old design would rust on the seal surface and start leaking . I just keep Myco spares in the boat box, broke down out of town,,the bad thing is if ya don't have a spare seal for that stainless sleeve/collar you cant get a seal anywere.the parts counter seal want fit over the stainless sleeve.I'm not sure how Kodiak does theres now?

If your changing the actuator go hyd over electric!!!! Wish I did

just rambling
Rob

Prater,
I am interested in following you lead with my trailer. Where did you buy your axles? Cost? Does Dexter offer 4000 or 4500 lbs. axles? Why did you decide to go to 6000 lbs? What is your plan for brakes (# axles, type and brand) What is your plan for the hydraulic system?

If you wouldn't mind, the cost per upgrade item/system would be helpful. Keep the pictures coming!
Ben

Ben,

I have a friend that is in the trailer business for Semi Trucks. He hooked me up with the parts through them as a favor.

I chose the 6K pound axles instead of the 5200 to give me a bit extra. The boat conservatively weights about 10K pounds empty. I like to load the boat at home before I pull it to the lake so I chose to go over capacity on the running gear. The trailer is a 7" Ibeam so I have plenty of weight bearing structure. I plan on using the Dexter Performance brake system but have not completely decided on the Electric/Hydraulic pump or dash controler yet. I am taking my time and spreading out the cost as I sell a few things off from the garage. Promised the wife I would not dip into family funds for my winter projects with the economy the ay it is.

I like your approach and I understand your pricing connection. I am interested in upgrading as my trailer is also a 7" beam but only has (3) 3500 lbs axles. Do you know what the the average boater would expect to pay for new Dexter axles for ratings from 4000-6000 lbs thru a Dexter dealer? Are the axle spec's are the same for disc and/or drum brakes?
Barry, assuming that Prater will now have an upgraded trailer rig that can now support his intended load, how would you go about getting the trailer ID tag, licensing, etc to align with the new capacity?
Most of us would rather meet you boating vs. along the side of the road

Ben,

Southwestwheel.com is a Dexter dealer. You can measure your current axles and give them the specs. You will need hub face to hub face and spring center to spring center for the axle replacements.