Trailer barake question,EOH or electric
01-03-2009, 01:18 PM
#1
Trailer barake question,EOH or electric
I have a triple axle eagle trailer with surge drum brakes on all 3 axles,
I wanted to switch over the electric over hydraulic but stay with drums.
I know I need a brake controller for the truck,also a brake actuator and a emergency brake unit for the trailer,is there anything else I need?
with the EOH do you still get that feeling when you fist apply the brakes like the boat/trailer is pushing you?
will going with full electric be better?
I wanted to switch over the electric over hydraulic but stay with drums.
I know I need a brake controller for the truck,also a brake actuator and a emergency brake unit for the trailer,is there anything else I need?
with the EOH do you still get that feeling when you fist apply the brakes like the boat/trailer is pushing you?
will going with full electric be better?
01-03-2009, 11:30 PM
#2
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
trailer brake upgrade
Gongrats on your decision to upgrade your braking system. Give strong consideration to a system which includes EOH with disc brakes on all axles. That type of system should give you the best stopping performance. To make the system, you will need:
1. Controller (mounted in the power unit)
2. Replace the surge brake coupling device with a fixed tongue.
3. EOH actuator mounted on the trailer.
4. Break away system mounted on the trailer.
5. Replace the current trailer drum brakes with rotor/disc brake assemblies.
Many states also require safety chains between power unit and towed unit.
I would suggest you check with your state traffic laws to determine if your state requires trailer brakes on all axles or if the trailer just needs to meet a stopping performance standard (speed vs. stopping distance). Of course, brakes on all axles will provide the best performance.
You may also need to upgrade your electrical connections between power unit and towed unit with a 7 pin assembly to get the electric signal to the EOH actuator and charge the breakaway battery.
To answer your last question: After conversion, and proper adjustment of the controller, your EOH system will activate simultaneously with the power unit when you press the brake pedal-you should not feel that "push" sensation as you do with your current surge brake system.
This conversion will require a bit of work and expense on your part, but well worth it the long run to avoid potential conflict with other drivers.
1. Controller (mounted in the power unit)
2. Replace the surge brake coupling device with a fixed tongue.
3. EOH actuator mounted on the trailer.
4. Break away system mounted on the trailer.
5. Replace the current trailer drum brakes with rotor/disc brake assemblies.
Many states also require safety chains between power unit and towed unit.
I would suggest you check with your state traffic laws to determine if your state requires trailer brakes on all axles or if the trailer just needs to meet a stopping performance standard (speed vs. stopping distance). Of course, brakes on all axles will provide the best performance.
You may also need to upgrade your electrical connections between power unit and towed unit with a 7 pin assembly to get the electric signal to the EOH actuator and charge the breakaway battery.
To answer your last question: After conversion, and proper adjustment of the controller, your EOH system will activate simultaneously with the power unit when you press the brake pedal-you should not feel that "push" sensation as you do with your current surge brake system.
This conversion will require a bit of work and expense on your part, but well worth it the long run to avoid potential conflict with other drivers.
01-03-2009, 11:43 PM
#3
Charter Member
A couple of us did the change over this summer. The difference/gain is SO worth the expense. I now have braking while backing down the ramp and wet pavements are no longer a consern. Don't rely on the truck to have traction in order to activate the surge coupler. I highly recommend the MaxBrake controller. It works like no tommorrow. It does not require any input from your trucks abilty to slow down to work to give some deaccellerating force to make some controllers feedback to work, thus giving you the delayed feeling. Mnay use the new P3 controler and are happy with their results. Avoid the $50 cheapies at all cost.
MaxBrake works soley off brake line pressure, nothing else. The harder you push the pedal, the more your trailer brakes work. Doesn't matter if you are going forward, backwards, dry pavement, wet or even stopped.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...iler-redo.html
MaxBrake works soley off brake line pressure, nothing else. The harder you push the pedal, the more your trailer brakes work. Doesn't matter if you are going forward, backwards, dry pavement, wet or even stopped.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...iler-redo.html
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 01-23-2009 at 10:25 PM.
01-04-2009, 07:46 AM
#4
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This may not be the proper place to ask this question or state an opinion(maybe a new thread?) so here gos.
I have always held the opinion on trailers for boats etc. that it is better to have an axle without brakes, especially a triple axle. The reason I feel this way is because in a panic stop you are far less likely to have the trailer jack knife on you. This is especially true now with the vast improvements in tow vehicles breaking improvements...IE antilock brakes. This will be a different story when trailers are equiped with antilock brakes.
Opinions?
I have always held the opinion on trailers for boats etc. that it is better to have an axle without brakes, especially a triple axle. The reason I feel this way is because in a panic stop you are far less likely to have the trailer jack knife on you. This is especially true now with the vast improvements in tow vehicles breaking improvements...IE antilock brakes. This will be a different story when trailers are equiped with antilock brakes.
Opinions?
01-09-2009, 06:50 AM
#5
This may not be the proper place to ask this question or state an opinion(maybe a new thread?) so here gos.
I have always held the opinion on trailers for boats etc. that it is better to have an axle without brakes, especially a triple axle. The reason I feel this way is because in a panic stop you are far less likely to have the trailer jack knife on you. This is especially true now with the vast improvements in tow vehicles breaking improvements...IE antilock brakes. This will be a different story when trailers are equiped with antilock brakes.
Opinions?
I have always held the opinion on trailers for boats etc. that it is better to have an axle without brakes, especially a triple axle. The reason I feel this way is because in a panic stop you are far less likely to have the trailer jack knife on you. This is especially true now with the vast improvements in tow vehicles breaking improvements...IE antilock brakes. This will be a different story when trailers are equiped with antilock brakes.
Opinions?
Think about it, how does your vehicle brakes work? The front does most of the work, right? Wouldn't you want the trailer set up the same way? Think of your vehicle as the front axle brakes & the trailer as the rear axle breaks.
01-09-2009, 09:26 AM
#6
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The last boat I purchased had both axels with electric drum brakes. It is a Loadmaster Trailer. Had boat now 4 years without a problem. Vast improvement over surg, doing away with that annoying "clunk" when taking off from a stop.
My controler does not work off line pressure so I double check my adjustment when leaving house on loose gravel (my driveway) by setting gain to where it locks up brakes on gravel then back off from there giving yourself alittle extra.
Mine has worked great without feeling of being pushed. Boat is around 7,500 plus pounds puled by Avalanche. Some boat trailer manufactures will not put on elect brakes cause "water and elect. don't mix" therory.
My controler does not work off line pressure so I double check my adjustment when leaving house on loose gravel (my driveway) by setting gain to where it locks up brakes on gravel then back off from there giving yourself alittle extra.
Mine has worked great without feeling of being pushed. Boat is around 7,500 plus pounds puled by Avalanche. Some boat trailer manufactures will not put on elect brakes cause "water and elect. don't mix" therory.
01-09-2009, 10:27 AM
#7
Registered
I am not a fan of cutting into a brake line, if thats what Brake Rite requires. As for the trailer coming around, the pros tell me that you touch the brake controller paddles and the trailer will straighten out. I have never had to try it but I have no doubt that 6 brakes will stop my rig.
I am a big fan of EOH and disk. (and led lights) no backing problems, less corrosion issues, pretty bullet proof. Having said that I lost my trailer brakes TWICE last year due to installation problems. So I drive VERY carefully!
I am a big fan of EOH and disk. (and led lights) no backing problems, less corrosion issues, pretty bullet proof. Having said that I lost my trailer brakes TWICE last year due to installation problems. So I drive VERY carefully!
01-09-2009, 04:40 PM
#8
You just install a tee in between 1 of the ports coming out of the master cyl. and a brake line, then install the pressure sensor in the remaining tee port. The controller is working off the feedback from the sensor and has no effect on the trucks hyd system.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 01-22-2009 at 05:13 PM.
01-09-2009, 04:47 PM
#9
I prefer my truck to be able to stop the truck and the trailer to stop the trailer as 2 seperate vehicles, that just happen to be connected.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
01-10-2009, 04:22 AM
#10
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I've got brakes on all 3 axles & have had to put the woah to her a few times. I've never had the trailer want to come around me. Well there was one time on I-35 going South in the ice. I think the best thing to do is set the trailer brakes up just a little loose. You don't want the trailer locking up before the truck or you will get in trouble.
Think about it, how does your vehicle brakes work? The front does most of the work, right? Wouldn't you want the trailer set up the same way? Think of your vehicle as the front axle brakes & the trailer as the rear axle breaks.
Think about it, how does your vehicle brakes work? The front does most of the work, right? Wouldn't you want the trailer set up the same way? Think of your vehicle as the front axle brakes & the trailer as the rear axle breaks.
Not the case...a "jacknife" situation will result if you do not keep the tension between the towing vehicle and the trailer. Easiest way to explain is to pull a rope with a weight attached. What happens when there is no tension? The weight/momentum/slack will keep rolling and or push the towing vehicle. The trolley lever on the controller is used for this pupose as in class 8 tractor trailers.
