Ok just tried the new connector,everything worked but the brakes would stick one in a while backing up

My question is truck is a 7 pin round going to 5 pin flat trailer.Current connector is 7 truck side and 5 trailer side.The new one I had is 7 truck side but 2 are dead no metal in hole and 5 trailer side.

Which one should I be using does it matter?

Do you have the basic BU solenoid, or the one that will bleed off the pressure? The basic one will hold brake pressure in the line if you put the truck in reverse when the trailer brakes are active. Almost impossible to disengage the trailer brakes if you put the truck in reverse when backing up a hill. The deluxe solenoid bleeds off line pressure regardless. This model is required on disc brake trailers, the standard can be used for drum trailers since those can be backed up with brakes working. For the coulpe $$$ more, install the deluxe solenoid, or go all out EOH.

I believe I have the one that should close completely in reverse.I will find out Monday.It only does it sometimes mostly on stone when the resistance is more.This is why I think its leaking pressure.

Right out of the Kodiak Trailer Components manual, page 13, preventave maintenace item 5,
"5) Periodically, during each trip, check hub and assemblies to make sure they are within normal operating ranges (130-175 deg F). Do not touch brake components as they may be much hotter than the hub or wheel, especiall after recent braking."

I have a 1 yr old trailer, just switch to Amsoil greas this spring. Hubs run about 115-135 normally. Never checked the rotor itself. Also be sure you have the right emissivity setting for your heat gun. Typically stock settings read high if wrong.

I noticed my surge brakes (disc) were dragging on my last trip out. Prior to this trip they were working fine. When I put the boat in the water some steam came up.

I jacked the trailer up and the wheels will spin a few times and then stop, making a dragging noise the whole time.

I read about the reverse selonoids maintaining pressure. So, I cracked open the fittings on both sides of the selonoid and the master clyliner. The brakes are still dragging.

Is there a way to manually realese the pressure as a short term solution? I'm down to only a few more local outings this yr. and would rather fix them in the off season.

You can adjust the drums. Turn the wheel on the back of the drum up a few clicks. The brakes shouldn't drag. When they drag they heat up a lot and wear out fast.

They are disc brakes. I'm wondering if the pads are getting too low causing issues. I'm goig to replace them asap.

Make sure your slide in the tongue is greased,I think that might have been part of my problem.It was hanging up and not retracting fully.

Worn pads may not sit right in the calipers. Also, the caliper slide bolts could be sticking. And lastly, the brake piston could be sticking. I would take the slides out and grease them a little bit when you change the pads. If the sticking persists you may need a new caliper.

Lastly, make sure you aren't pinching the brake line anywhere. I have caught straps on mine a few times.

If you had steam when dunking the trailer you better go through your brake calipers. Your pistons may rust if water got in there. I second greasing the caliper slide pins.