electric/hydraulic brake issue???
 

excessive delay, reasons????

have tried 2 dif brake controllers(underdash & built in 450 Ford)

lines have been bleed, helped some but still way 2 long braking delay

Thanx 4 any help!!:cartman:

Sounds like still air in the system..................

Sounds like same problem I was having. Ford manual states there built in controller will not work with a electric over hydraulic style trailer brake system. I went with the activator 2 and since I pump my brakes the delay never seems to catch up. The older style did not have this built in delay and worked much better for my driving habits. The nice thing about installing the older activator 2 with a plug and play wire harness, it only takes a minute to unplug wiring from back of factory controller and plug this one in. With factory brake controller unplugged you will have a trouble on your dash so I do swap the 2 depending on trailer.

get the max brake and never worry again.

the newer Titan systems R supposed 2 work w/ the built in, drawtite act 2 & in-dash work'n about the same????????? near 4 second delay, my last trailer came on in about 1/2-1 sec at most!! so much for years newer & technology!!!!:daz:

I can sympathize about the delay problem. Anything over 1 second would be unacceptable to me. My Tekonsha Prodigy (with all electric brake) response is virtually instantaneous. I agree, about the newer controllers, more delay is a step backwards.

Exactly! You can adjust it to where you don't even know your trailer is behind you.

Get a Prodigy P2. It can run electric, or electric over hydraulic by switching modes. That is what I had in my old truck and it worked perfect with my trailer that had electric over hydraulic. I originally had a Draw Tite Activator II and it had a very bad delay, basically didn't do squat. I installed the P2 and the brakes worked perfect.

I love my Max-Brake controller.

Tried the Prodigy 3, same delay!! Scot at NT is have'n the same prob w his Myco under his new boat!!:hothead:

That sucks! Did you turn up the "boost" setting to see if that helps? There should be no delay at all either way, but it may help a little. I run mine on the 'b3' setting and it feels much better. It starts Applying the brakes at a higher initial voltage. You get ur boat back today? :coolcowboy:

Hey Bubba , everything is turned up as far as it will go!!! don't know wtf is go'n on??????:poopoo:

Is your battery on the trailer good, charged, and holding a charge?
Is the 12V hot on your 7 pin connector on the truck hot all the time with 12V when the ignition is on?

Last, you will need two people to check this: The electric brake lead on the 7 pin on the truck... the voltage should increase as someone pushes on the brake pedal with the factory controller, or as someone slides the manual engage switch on the Tenkosha.

Last, there should be an electrical connection box on the Myco. You can check all of the voltages there and make sure there is not a corrosion issue or anything.

I stuck a comparative thread up some time back on the different aftermarket controllers. The MaxBrake is definitely a better choice over an inertia based controller like the Tenkosha.

With that said, I've towed my Myco with the MaxBrake on my truck, and with a borrowed 2006 Ford with integrated factory controller, and they both work fine.

There is an adapter that Myco sells for use with the BrakeRite systems they install, when coupled with factory brake systems. You might need this.

We have a different setup that uses the Carlisle E/H system and when I installed it according to their not so clear instructions the trailer brakes did not work the way they should. I took it to a local trailer shop and after about an hour of troubleshooting it turned out just one wire was hooked up wrong. Maybe it is that simple?

Did you call Myco about this issue? Before I purchased our set up I talked to Carlisle to make sure it would work with our truck. What year truck do you have? The fix could be as simple as getting an adapter, the shop that sold ours to us talked about maybe needing a wire kit, I don't know. Hope this helps.

Also, one last thing. We have a 2011 F-350 and in the system menu it has a setting for trailer brakes and the option for electric and electric over hydraulic. If you have a newer truck it could be a menu selection issue.

brand new trailer, month old!! I have talked 2 them way 2 much!!!:poopoo:

What year is your F-450? There is a kit out there that our trailer supplier said I may need for our on board controller to work with E/H brakes. As it turned out ours did not need it. Just another thought and I can sympathize with you issues.

08, but the new components on the trailer R supposed 2 B compatible w/ the in dash??? but I have also tried my drawtite activator 2 that worked fine w/ my last myco from 06ish & just tried the new prodigy 3 the other day, same delay!!! so I have tried 3 separate controllers & the guy that pulled my boat up from NT back at Memorial w/e had a year 10 Dodge & his controller had the delay issues also????? U would think that over a few years things would work better w/ technology or at least the same, not worse!!!:cartman:

driver error

up yours punk!!:evilb:

solution !
 

YOU HAVE A SHORT,MAKE IT LONGER !:evilb::evilb::evilb:

I wouldn't bring up the word "short" if I were ?U old maN!!!:poopoo:

Buy a chevy :whistle:

From ford forum, 08 has a wiring harness issue!!! Mide did glad i sold it !!! My Myco 2011 work great with 2011 Chevy

If that doesn't fix your problem.Check the wiring under truck towards the back under bed,it's a known problem that if you have an intermittant ground in that area you'll have that same problem.Seems like Ford didn't do a good job with the wiring harness.Also if you have electric/hydraulic brakes the controller is not certified to work with Ford's IBC as stated in you owners manual.

WHY DID MY 08 W/ DRAWTITE ACT 2 WORK GREAT W/ MY 06 MYCO???:cartman::daz:

Luck:party-smiley-004:

U punk, helped launch a brand new quad 39 nt cc on lake Char last w/e!!!

who's boat ??? BTW found this !!





Final chapter in the saga of the brake delay. I finally bit the bullet and relocated the ground wire on the pump. It is now in an isolated circuit directly back to the truck battery (it had been grounded to a common ground in the trailer). Delay time now is 1/2 second or less on manual override and not noticeable with using the brake pedal. The system now works as advertised and the secret is that the ground path MUST be directly back to the truck battery

If the guy who brought it had problems too then I would suspect some kind of trailer issue. I had a 2007 Myco that I pulled with 2006 f-250 with P3 about worked great. Can you find someone with a truck/brake controller that is known to work and try your trailer? Also if you can find another trailer to try with your truck. good luck

We can try my chevy for a price

And Bill could have the answer. If the ground needs to direct to batt then there is a good chance any truck this trailer is hooked to will have the same problems.

Thanx Bubba

Don't listen to him he owns a Nortech CC:)

OH, 1 of those people!!!!:party-smiley-004::daz:

I have pointed this out 2 TS at NT who as I have said earlier that Scot at NT is have'n issues also! Call'n TS tomorrow 2 ask 4 any progress!!! Here I am w/ my brand new trailer since May 25 & I still have improper working brakes & let me remind U that this same truck & Drawtite Act 2 controller worked fine w/ my 06 myco!!! ????????:cartman: I have done anything myco has asked me 2 do including buy'n a new controller after I paid somebody 2 swap out my Drawtite under dash back 2 my in dash that the new trailer is supposed 2 B compatible w/!!!!(again, have tried 3 sep controllers) Get'n a little twisted here!!! I'm tow'n around 16-17K worth of expensive boat/trailer & my trailer from years ago was much better!!! Riddle me??????? Thanx:poopoo:

It's a short between the steering wheel and brake pedal:)

Thanx O' wise 1!!!:grinser010:

spliced into the ground out of the pump, long line directly 2 the truck battery!! no dif!!!!! delay still present!!!:mad:

When you pull the "rip cord" on the breakaway brake cable, does the brake pump start pumping instantly?

I usually test my brakes before each pull by having the ignition ON on the truck, but w/o the engine running. I don't know if your factory system will work like that. I test it both ways by pressing on the brake pedal, and listening for the the brake pump to engage; as well as using the manual actuator switch and listening for the brake pump to engage accordingly.

What I'm getting at...
Is your brake pump delaying in starting to pump pressure to the brakes, OR is the delay you describe a delay BEFORE you feel braking power; after the pump starts pumping.

yes, pump starts right away whether pull'n breakaway or push'n truck brake pedal! then no actual trailer brake'n for 3-4 seconds!! my last myco w/ same truck & contoller, maybe 1/2 second or so!!! worked fine for years!! here I am w/ a brand new trailer that is totally unacceptable!!!

Alright, well that does narrow it down a bit. Either that pump is not pumping effectively; or something between the pump and the calipers is jacked up. It might even be a kinked line.

My EoH pump on the trailer supplies enough pressure to immediately throw brake fluid 30 feet when there is an open in the system. I found that out on the trip up there to Boyne when I broke a brake line on the trailer outside of Cleveland. I'd look to see how effective the pump is operating and pushing fluid down the line by opening the furthest brake bleeder and checking things out moving forward.