Weight distribution hitches?
#11
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From: Bay City, MI
Basically, all of the factory hitches are junk, period.
They are rated for their max capacity only with the WD hitch setup. Simplest solution would be to bolt on a stouter Class-V hitch that can support your towed load as a Weight Carrying setup. A Class-V hitch and Grade-8 bolts will probably run you less than a WD hitch setup, and you won't have to modify your trailer with a pole-tongue adapter or anything which can be a bit of a PITA to make work.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...cleid=20138556
I ran WD on my surge brake trailer for a couple years; my pics are here on OSO from years past. Knowing what I do now; I'd never, ever do it again. My setup was adequate, and I made sure I had it set up right. But that whole 8 foot area between the back of the frame of your truck, and the winch stand of your boat is NOT the area to go with "adequate" on any of the components. Preferred--is preferred. Overkill is mucho-bettero.
They are rated for their max capacity only with the WD hitch setup. Simplest solution would be to bolt on a stouter Class-V hitch that can support your towed load as a Weight Carrying setup. A Class-V hitch and Grade-8 bolts will probably run you less than a WD hitch setup, and you won't have to modify your trailer with a pole-tongue adapter or anything which can be a bit of a PITA to make work.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...cleid=20138556
I ran WD on my surge brake trailer for a couple years; my pics are here on OSO from years past. Knowing what I do now; I'd never, ever do it again. My setup was adequate, and I made sure I had it set up right. But that whole 8 foot area between the back of the frame of your truck, and the winch stand of your boat is NOT the area to go with "adequate" on any of the components. Preferred--is preferred. Overkill is mucho-bettero.
#12
No, they don't transfer weight any better. They just have better attachment to the frame and much sturdier construction.
BUT, your boat really doesn't have much tongue weight compared to a travel or cargo trailer which has it's weight spread over the majority of the trailer.
https://www.google.com/search?q=gm+hitch+flex
BUT, your boat really doesn't have much tongue weight compared to a travel or cargo trailer which has it's weight spread over the majority of the trailer.
https://www.google.com/search?q=gm+hitch+flex
#13
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From: Bay City, MI
Hooked boat to truck today and it looked pretty good, did not squat the truck much and that is with the boat pulled ahead a bit to ride better on my 3/4. Truck and trailer looked level, pleasantly surprised, may just change out the hitch like suggested and roll with it.
#14
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From: Indy, St. Louis, LOTO
Could you have meant to say that most of the weight on our boats is in the stern, and that is why the axles on a boat trailer are further aft than most other trailers, where they are more centered. As such, sway and instability generated by the trailer is less a problem for us than for other trailers. As such, we can get by with as little as 5% tongue weight, which in fact used to be touted as the goal. But today we tend to aim for 10%, or about 1000 lbs in the OP's case (7500 boat and 2500 trailer = 10,000 load).
(To the OP: I used to pull my similar load with a 1/2 ton suburban. It did a better job than it should have, but there was still a lot of porpoissing, and I had air bags on the drive axle. (Moving to a 3/4 ton truck was nice for pulling.) Doing it again, I might try using WD hitch set very light with strong bars. That way the bars will aid when the trailer is trying to porpoise down, but not affect the surge tongue too much during normal use. Not ideal, but might be the best of your options at this point. Also, as soft as a 1/2 ton suburban is sprung, if you are not settling down the rear with you boat trailer, you don't have much tongue weight. You should run down to a truck stop and use their scales to weight your rig, and then drop the trailer and weigh the truck alone. This information is important to setting up your hitch and tongue weight right.)
Last edited by Chart; 08-04-2013 at 07:31 PM.
#15
You tend to be spot on re: trailering, but I'm not sure the above is what you meant to say. A boat trailer can easily exceed the tongue weight as a cargo trailer or a travel trailer. A) Our boats weigh more than most of those. B) By sliding our boats forward we can generate a lot of tongue weight. C) While boat trailers don't need as high a minimum tongue weight %, 10% is still a great goal. On our 10,000 - 15,000 lb boat and trailers, that's over a 1000 lbs on the tongue.
Could you have meant to say that most of the weight on our boats is in the stern, and that is why the axles on a boat trailer are further aft than most other trailers, where they are more centered. As such, sway and instability generated by the trailer is less a problem for us than for other trailers. As such, we can get by with as little as 5% tongue weight, which in fact used to be touted as the goal. But today we tend to aim for 10%, or about 1000 lbs in the OP's case (7500 boat and 2500 trailer = 10,000 load).
(To the OP: I used to pull my similar load with a 1/2 ton suburban. It did a better job than it should have, but there was still a lot of porpoissing, and I had air bags on the drive axle. (Moving to a 3/4 ton truck was nice for pulling.) Doing it again, I might try using WD hitch set very light with strong bars. That way the bars will aid when the trailer is trying to porpoise down, but not affect the surge tongue too much during normal use. Not ideal, but might be the best of your options at this point. Also, as soft as a 1/2 ton suburban is sprung, if you are not settling down the rear with you boat trailer, you don't have much tongue weight. You should run down to a truck stop and use their scales to weight your rig, and then drop the trailer and weigh the truck alone. This information is important to setting up your hitch and tongue weight right.)
Could you have meant to say that most of the weight on our boats is in the stern, and that is why the axles on a boat trailer are further aft than most other trailers, where they are more centered. As such, sway and instability generated by the trailer is less a problem for us than for other trailers. As such, we can get by with as little as 5% tongue weight, which in fact used to be touted as the goal. But today we tend to aim for 10%, or about 1000 lbs in the OP's case (7500 boat and 2500 trailer = 10,000 load).
(To the OP: I used to pull my similar load with a 1/2 ton suburban. It did a better job than it should have, but there was still a lot of porpoissing, and I had air bags on the drive axle. (Moving to a 3/4 ton truck was nice for pulling.) Doing it again, I might try using WD hitch set very light with strong bars. That way the bars will aid when the trailer is trying to porpoise down, but not affect the surge tongue too much during normal use. Not ideal, but might be the best of your options at this point. Also, as soft as a 1/2 ton suburban is sprung, if you are not settling down the rear with you boat trailer, you don't have much tongue weight. You should run down to a truck stop and use their scales to weight your rig, and then drop the trailer and weigh the truck alone. This information is important to setting up your hitch and tongue weight right.)
#16
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From: Bay City, MI
Thanks for all the info, after thinking about it, (instead of over thinking), I ordered a heavier hitch for the truck. The only reason I was checking into WD hitches was the thought it might be cheaper than a hitch or have substantial benefits while towing. The trailer tows better than most I have pulled, (Manning custom made for boat) and has never wanted to sway or porpoise. I tow heavy equipment on a daily basis so am no stranger to towing loads and the importance of setp and weight distribution. My real concern with this setup vs my 3/4 ton is brakes and tounge weight. I am pretty sure as it sits the tounge weight is probably shy of 1000, and I can move the boat back 4" if I need to adjust it. Have access to scales but with the 3/4 it was never a question, will have to check and see now. I already had thoughts of switching to EOH brakes, this may speed that along. Will try it on some local pulls and see how it acts, if its marginal the d-max will be handling longer trips.
#17
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Troy, Mich
Thanks for all the info, after thinking about it, (instead of over thinking), I ordered a heavier hitch for the truck. The only reason I was checking into WD hitches was the thought it might be cheaper than a hitch or have substantial benefits while towing. The trailer tows better than most I have pulled, (Manning custom made for boat) and has never wanted to sway or porpoise. I tow heavy equipment on a daily basis so am no stranger to towing loads and the importance of setp and weight distribution. My real concern with this setup vs my 3/4 ton is brakes and tounge weight. I am pretty sure as it sits the tounge weight is probably shy of 1000, and I can move the boat back 4" if I need to adjust it. Have access to scales but with the 3/4 it was never a question, will have to check and see now. I already had thoughts of switching to EOH brakes, this may speed that along. Will try it on some local pulls and see how it acts, if its marginal the d-max will be handling longer trips.
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